Many first-time chip carvers experience issues with color bleeding out of the chips and into the surrounding wood when staining projects. Here’s what you can do to keep the color inside the chips. Once you master adding color to chip carvings, test it out on some summer-themed coasters.

When your carving is finished, first seal the wood completely. Apply several light coats of spray satin lacquer, matte acrylic, or shellac-based sanding sealer to the entire carving—front, back, and edges. If your carved item is quite thin, avoid a penetrating sealer, as this will cause the wood to cup. 

With the wood properly sealed, brush a gel stain into the recesses of your carving and wipe off the surface with a cotton cloth. Gel stains do not absorb into the wood like penetrating oil stains. Let the stain dry overnight and spray on a final topcoat to complete the finish.

If you try to color the chips with a penetrating oil stain or dye before sealing the wood properly, the colors will bleed.

Marty used the technique outlined above on his “Chip-Carved Ball-Foot Box” from the fall 2019 issue (#88). 

Marty Leenhouts is the founder of MyChipCarving.com with over 30k subscribers and 200k hours of watch time. Courses, videos, patterns and more are available at  his website. He and his wife Shelley, also run Red Barn Retreats in Garden City, Minn.

Painting a Jaguar

Mix equal parts apricot, golden brown, and white to make gold paint. Dilute the paint 50 percent with  water and paint the gold areas. Mix white paint 1:1 with water and paint the white areas. While the paint is still wet, use a circular motion to blend the two colors where they meet. You may need to dilute the paint further to make the colors easier to blend. Allow the piece to dry thoroughly before painting the rest of the carving.

Iris: Mix gold with a touch of nutmeg brown;
thin slightly with water

Nose: Mix gold with khaki; thin slightly with water.
Grade to black at edges.

Markings: Black; thin slightly with water

Ears: Black; thin heavily with water

Rosettes on sides and back of head: nutmeg brown;
thin heavily with water

Painting a Black Panther

Thin dark charcoal gray paint 1:1 with water. Paint the entire carving and let dry.

Iris: Mix gold with a touch of nutmeg brown;
thin slightly with water

Nose: Pinkish brown darkening to black

Markings: Black; thin slightly with water

Using a Natural Finish

I carved this panther from butternut, applied a walnut stain, and finished it with Danish oil. To make the eye stand out, paint the pupil black and add a white highlight dot.

MATERIALS

• Basswood or butternut, 7/8″ (2.2cm) thick: 3″ x 4″ (7.6cm x 10.2cm)

•  Acrylic paint, such as Plaid Apple Barrel: black, white, khaki, apricot, golden brown, nutmeg brown, pink; black panther only: charcoal gray

• Danish oil (optional)

• Stain: walnut (optional)

TOOLS

• Detail knife with a 7/8″ (22mm)-long blade, such as a Notto

• Veiner: 1/16″ (2mm) such as Dockyard (optional)

•Paintbrush: #2 round, such as Loew-Cornell

Don Self began whittling Boy Scout neckerchief slides in 1987. After retiring from a career in geology, Don returned to his native Alabama, where he joined the Tannehill Wood Carvers Club. He enjoys creating human and animal caricatures, and particularly relishes the challenge of converting an outrageous mental image into a 3-D wooden sculpture. Don typically works in basswood, painting each sculpture with acrylics, but he also enjoys working in butternut, cypress, and water oak, where the figure of the wood takes center stage.

Bristles

Naturally, the bristles are the most important part of the brush. They are made either with synthetic fibers (these are very “springy” and smooth in texture), natural fibers (hair of various animals—kolinsky sable, pony, hog, etc.) or a combination of the two fibers.

Natural bristles have barbs or scales, which make them thicker, stiffer, and a little harder to clean. Due to their stiffness, natural bristle brushes are mainly used for canvas painting with thicker paint. Typically, they are more expensive than synthetic brushes; however, some can be less expensive than the synthetic options.

Synthetic brushes, which are smoother and springier than their natural counterparts, go with a variety of paints and are typically easier to clean. I use mainly synthetic brushes for applying paint, but I reserve some natural bristle brushes for blending. Pricing depends on the size; I spend $3-$5 on smaller brushes and $10-$15 on larger ones. However, buying a set is usually cheaper.

Rounds

Workhorse of the set; used for applying paint and washes.

Flats

Used for painting large areas and adding textures, such as house or roof details.

Angled flats

Used like regular flats, but tip can reach into smaller areas.

Filberts

Good for blending or painting a soft edge.

Used for fine lines and detail

Blenders

Used to blur the border between two colors to form a gradation of color.

Fan brushes

Used to paint textured areas like clouds, trees, or leaves.

“Spoiled” brushes

Great for blending and adding texture (It may be the Yankee in me, but I have a hard time throwing a brush out!).

Washing Your Brushes

When using acrylics, have a container of water ready to wash your brushes instantly because the paint dries so quickly. Note: It is safe to wash acrylic paint off in your work or household sink. Use warm—not hot—water; hot water can cause the glue used to secure the bristles to fail.

Clean your oil paint brushes in a paint thinner before washing with water. Note: You can leave your paint thinner in a sealed jar, let the pigment settle, and reuse at a later time. Be sure to collect oil paint sludge and dispose of it at your local hazardous waste site. Do your best to remove all the paint, especially from the ferrule; paint left to dry here will cause the bristles to splay out and separate. 

After you wash your brushes in paint thinner and squeeze them with a cloth, give them a final wash with a brush cleaner; I like The Master’s Brush Cleaner (use as directed). A good brush cleaner will even restore a brush with hardened paint on it to some degree. Shape the bristles while they are wet and let them air dry.

Storing Your Brushes

Store your brushes upright in a container so the bristles don’t bend. I use a simple jar for organized storage and easy access. You can get carriers of all sizes at any art supply store if you need to transport your brushes and other painting supplies.

Getting Started

Photocopy the patterns. Then sand the 3″ by 3″ (7.6cm by 7.6cm) piece of basswood with 220-grit sandpaper. I recommend using this specific size of basswood as it is safer to use a larger piece than the exact size of the pattern. Remove the dust with a tack cloth. Apply a coat of wipe-on polyurethane, such as Minwax®, and allow it to dry. The polyurethane helps prevent an uneven finish when you apply the final coats of finish or stain after carving. Trim the patterns to fit the earrings. Then apply rubber cement to the back of the pattern and center it on the wood. Set up your workspace; I carve against a nonslip mat.

Carving

Carve the pieces according to the patterns. Most of the chips in this project are old-world style. These chips use two vertical cuts and a diagonal cut to create triangles. On the patterns, the dots mark the deep end of each chip. After I carve the earrings, I cut each one out on a scroll saw, cutting just outside of the pattern line. Then I sand them up to the line on a sanding belt to get a smooth edge. I then hold the earring at an angle to bevel the edges. Try to get the bevel angle even all around.

Finishing

Remove any remaining pattern paper. Apply two more coats of wipe-on polyurethane. Use a toothbrush to get the finish into the deep chip cuts. Buff the piece between coats with a soft cloth. Carefully drill a 1/8″ (3mm)-dia. hole at the top of each earring to add the earring hooks. Insert a mini screw eye pin into the hole, using a tiny drop of cyanoacrylate (CA) glue to secure it. Besides earrings, these carvings can be used to make necklaces, keychain fobs, pins, zipper pulls, or enlarged to become a luggage tag. I never thought I would wear large earrings, but these are fun and light. Enjoy!

MATERIALS

• Basswood 3/16″ (5mm) thick: 3″ x  3″ (7.6cm x 7.6cm) square or larger

• Sandpaper: 220-grit

• Rubber cement

• Tack cloth

• Toothbrush

• Clear finish, such as Minwax® wipe-on polyurethane: satin

• Gel stain, such as Old Masters®: assorted colors (optional)

• Acrylic paints: assorted (optional)

• Glue: cyanoacrylate (CA)

• Earring hooks

• Mini screw eye

TOOLS

• Scroll saw with blades: #2/0 reverse-tooth

• Knife: chip carving

• Belt sander

• Drill with bit: 1/8″ (3mm)-dia.

• Nonslip mat (optional)

Jan Jenson lives in Eau Claire, Wis., and Pharr, Texas, and loves to teach chip carving. She has written three chip carving books, Blue Ribbon Chip Carving, More Blue Ribbon Chip Carving, and her third book is available digitally and includes 50 pages of new patterns. Her other hobbies include box-making and quilting. Contact her at JOJenson@gmail.com.

Beginner’s Guide to Finishes

There are many different approaches to finishing a carving—where to start? Here are some tips

By Staff of Woodcarving Illustrated

Carving the Classics

Mary May’s lush, old-world woodwork transports us to an elegant past

By Dorissa Bolinski

Stylized Christmas Tree with Ornaments

Carve and trim this tree from the comfort of your workbench

By Dave Kergan

20-Minute Whittled Wolf

Quickly carve this woodland creature in a flat-plane style

By Tom Hindes

Stovepipe Hat Santa

This cool guy in a jaunty topper is stepping out for the holidays

By Dave Francis

Waddling Wally

Let this charming penguin keep you warm on a cold day

By Gerard Canavan

Mouse in a Mitten

Stir up some sweetness with this quick and cute carve

By Robert Rangel

Sound Asleep Santa Ornament

This free-falling design is sure to land on your list of favorite winter baubles

By Rick Stoddard

Snowman Caricature

This season, carve up a character who just can’t wait for the flurries to fall

By Bruce Ankeny

Geometric Star

Use chip carving techniques to make a striking (and beginner-friendly) gift

By Mary May

Easy Iceberg and Penguins

Whittle a sweet Antarctic scene using just a knife and some scrap wood

By L. P. Parslow

Lantern and Berries Layered Ornament

A warm candle lights the night in this cozy window scene

By Betty Padden

Tree Man Ornament

This gnome-like caricature is a perfect first carving project

By James Spencer

After the Sleigh Ride Santa Caricature

Santa deserves a rest after his gift-giving spree wraps up

By Bruce Ankeny

Stocking Ornaments

Bundle up your Christmas tree with these cozy little chip-carved decorations

By Charlene Lynum

Folk Art Farm Animals

Put your own spin on these rustic barnyard beauties

By Jill Motovidlak

 Comfort Rhino

Quiet your worries with a smooth creature that fits perfectly in your palm

By Tom Mellott

Singing Christmas Trees

Who needs a barbershop quartet when you have a choir of expressive evergreens?

By Russell Scott

Simple Santa Whistle

Make some noise for the holidays with this old-fashioned toy

By W. Todd Martin

Firefighter Caricature Busts

Striking facial expressions and subtle paint washes bring this brave crew to life

By Kevin Applegate

Kirigami Snowflake

Reimagine a classic childhood project—in wood!

By Paul Bruillard

Icicle Ornaments

Chip carve 3D icicles with this easy-to-follow technique

By Charlene Lynum

Brush Soap

Brushes should be cleaned well with a good quality soap when you finish painting. While painting, rinse the brushes in water and occasionally dip into an extender such as Jo Sonja’s Retarder to keep the paint from drying in the bristles until you have time to clean them.

Containers for Water

You’ll need two water containers; one to rinse the paint from your brush and the other to pick up water as you paint. Dirty water will change the color of your paint, so keep this container clean. A useful addition to your painting supplies is a brush basin that is divided into two sections with ridges in the bottom. Gently stroke brushes across the ridges to get all of the paint out.

Containers for Mediums, Such as Flow Medium and Clear Glaze Medium

You will need at least two small containers to hold mediums. These can be anything from the cap for a bottle to small candle cups or eggcups.

Disposable Acrylic Palette Paper

Paper palettes are available in pads. These are needed for color mixing and dry palette blending. Make sure the paper you select has one slick side. Pads of palette paper listed for use of both acrylic and oils, which do not have the slick side, may absorb the moisture from acrylic paint too quickly.

Distilled Water in a Squeeze Bottle

Use distilled water if storing your palette of colors in a closed container for any length of time. Some tap water contains mold that may grow and contaminate the paint.

Palette Knife

A plastic, bent-blade palette knife is great for mixing colors and mediums. They’re inexpensive and easy to clean.

Paper Towels

Use inexpensive paper towels to set up your wet palette. Thick paper towels may be used for wiping your brush when painting. Fold them into quarters to save space in your work area.

Pencil and Pencil Sharpener

A #2HB pencil is the easiest to find. Your pencil may be used for drawing or making notes in your sketchbook. The pencil sharpener will also be used to sharpen soapstone (see below).

Sandpaper

Small pieces of various grits of sandpaper are used both for surface preparation and painting. Medium- or light-colored sandpaper will not lose its color on the background. Fingernail files, which are available in a variety of grades, are excellent for hard to reach places.

Sketchbook or Journal

A spiral bound sketchbook or a small journal should be kept for gathering inspiration, color samples, and notes. Glue a mylar pocket from an office supply store to the back to hold small things

Soapstone

Soapstone or plumber’s chalk comes in a stick. It is available at hardware stores in the plumbing supplies. Sharpen the soapstone with a pencil sharpener as needed. This is used to sketch onto the surface of carvings because the lines are easily removed.

Towel for Work Area

An old towel or cloth protects the work surface and provides a cushion for your project.

Wet Palette

A wet palette is used for paint storage and may be set up using any shallow container. A wet palette may be as simple as a paper plate or a foam meat tray. An airtight container for food storage will keep paint workable for several days or weeks. Lay a damp paper towel on top of your palette, and apply the paint on top of the paper towel.

Vicki Rhodes has authored books and numerous magazine articles.

Controls are on the power hub, not the tool handle.

The Power Hub

The MakerX hub transfers the energy of a 20-volt lithium ion battery to any attached tool through a super flexible cord. The hub has an onboard power switch and variable speed control, negating the need for them to be incorporated into the individual tools. The kit we tested includes a rotary tool and an airbrush—but the hub can power additional MakerX tools, such as an angle grinder, heat gun, and burnisher. The WorX Power Share battery can provide up to three hours of power on a single charge, depending on the tool and how it’s being used.

Changing bits is easy with the integral spindle lock and the wrench supplied in the kit.

The rotary tool has excellent power, with speeds up to 35,000RPM.

The Rotary Tool

The handpiece has a comfortable ergonomic design with a soft-textured rubber grip. There’s plenty of power in the brushless motor, which allows for speeds from 5,000 to 35,000 RPM. We used several carving bits on pine and walnut blanks, and the tool performed well. The universal 1/8″ (3mm) collet holds any brand of rotary accessories.

The tool is not loud, but has a high-pitched whine, especially at faster speeds. It’s worth noting that the tool will shut off when pushed too hard. This is a design feature that surprised us at first—but it occurs so that the bit or blade will not kick back or become difficult to control. If this occurs, reset the system by turning the startup button on the hub off, and then turn on again. Once familiar with the tool, we were able to carve with minimal interruptions.

The compressor pump provides a stable base for the airbrush to stand upright.

The Airbrush

No noisy, bulky compressor or hose needed with the MakerX airbrush! The airbrush pen mounts directly onto a lightweight canister-type compressor that provdes 14-18 psi of air pressure. It also doubles as a comfortable handle for the brush, and solidly supports the unit upright when not in use. The pen itself is a high-quality tool that rivals those from well-known airbrush manufacturers.

Adjust paint flow with the knob on the end of the pen.

Conclusion

When you place all the elements of the system into the well-designed carry bag, you’ll truly appreciate the compact portability of the MakerX. The tote is lined with pockets to hold the tools safely and separately, with ample space left over for carving blanks, a water bottle, several bottles of paint, and an extra battery or two to keep you crafting on the go. The price is modest for the array of quality tools in the kit—not to mention the capability to power carve nearly anywhere you want.

Kit Contents

MakerX rotary tool

MakerX airbrush

Airbrush compressor

MakerX hub

20V battery

Battery charger

Accessory case

Storage bag

Steel brush (1)

Bristle brush (1)

Drum mandrel (1)

Cutting accessories (8)

Sanding accessories (12)

Polishing accessories (4)

Grinding accessories (5)

Engraving accessories (4)

Screw-on mandrel (1)

Threaded mandrel (1)

Drill bit: 1 1/8″ (29mm) (1)

Spanner wrench (1)

Dropper (1)

Cleaning brush (1)

Making the Paint Rack

Cut the pieces as noted in the Materials List. I used a table saw. Use the drawings to mark the screw locations. Drill 1/16″ (2mm)-diameter pilot holes for the screws to keep the plywood from splitting. Countersink the holes in the acrylic so the screws sit flush with the surface. Sand all of the pieces so there are no sharp edges. Then, screw the pieces together.

Materials

• Plywood, 3/4″ (1.9cm) thick: sides,
2 each 7″ x 18 3/4″ (17.8cm x 47.6cm)

• Plywood, 3/4″ (1.9cm) thick: shelf 1, 1 1/2″ x 28 1/2″ (3.8cm x 72.4cm)

• Plywood, 3/4″ (1.9cm) thick: shelf 2, 3 1/8″ x 28 1/2″ (7.9cm x 72.4cm)

• Plywood, 3/4″ (1.9cm) thick: shelf 3, 4 3/4″ x 28 1/2″ (12.1cm x 72.4cm)

• Plywood, 3/4″ (1.9cm) thick: shelf 4 , 6 3/8″ x 28 1/2″ (16.2cm x 72.4cm)

• Tempered hardboard or plywood, 1/4″ (6mm) thick: back 18 3/4″ x 28 1/2″ (47.6cm x 72.4cm)

• Drywall screws, #8: 3/4″ (1.9cm) long;
1 5/8″ (4.1cm) long

• Clear acrylic plastic, such as Plexiglas,
1/8″ (3mm) thick: top shelves, 4″ x 28 1/2″ (10.2cm x 72.4cm); bottom shelf, 2 1/4″ x 28 1/2″ (5.7cm x 72.4cm)

Tools

• Table saw

• Drill with bits: 1/16″ (2mm), countersink

• Screwdriver

Steve Russell is from Independence, Iowa. He took up carving about eight years ago. Steve has won numerous awards at both the local and national levels. He has held classes and workshops at his studio and with the Northeast Iowa Woodcarvers Club. Contact Steve at sjr1953@hotmail.com.