Bristles

Naturally, the bristles are the most important part of the brush. They are made either with synthetic fibers (these are very “springy” and smooth in texture), natural fibers (hair of various animals—kolinsky sable, pony, hog, etc.) or a combination of the two fibers.

Natural bristles have barbs or scales, which make them thicker, stiffer, and a little harder to clean. Due to their stiffness, natural bristle brushes are mainly used for canvas painting with thicker paint. Typically, they are more expensive than synthetic brushes; however, some can be less expensive than the synthetic options.

Synthetic brushes, which are smoother and springier than their natural counterparts, go with a variety of paints and are typically easier to clean. I use mainly synthetic brushes for applying paint, but I reserve some natural bristle brushes for blending. Pricing depends on the size; I spend $3-$5 on smaller brushes and $10-$15 on larger ones. However, buying a set is usually cheaper.

Rounds

Workhorse of the set; used for applying paint and washes.

Flats

Used for painting large areas and adding textures, such as house or roof details.

Angled flats

Used like regular flats, but tip can reach into smaller areas.

Filberts

Good for blending or painting a soft edge.

Used for fine lines and detail

Blenders

Used to blur the border between two colors to form a gradation of color.

Fan brushes

Used to paint textured areas like clouds, trees, or leaves.

“Spoiled” brushes

Great for blending and adding texture (It may be the Yankee in me, but I have a hard time throwing a brush out!).

Washing Your Brushes

When using acrylics, have a container of water ready to wash your brushes instantly because the paint dries so quickly. Note: It is safe to wash acrylic paint off in your work or household sink. Use warm—not hot—water; hot water can cause the glue used to secure the bristles to fail.

Clean your oil paint brushes in a paint thinner before washing with water. Note: You can leave your paint thinner in a sealed jar, let the pigment settle, and reuse at a later time. Be sure to collect oil paint sludge and dispose of it at your local hazardous waste site. Do your best to remove all the paint, especially from the ferrule; paint left to dry here will cause the bristles to splay out and separate. 

After you wash your brushes in paint thinner and squeeze them with a cloth, give them a final wash with a brush cleaner; I like The Master’s Brush Cleaner (use as directed). A good brush cleaner will even restore a brush with hardened paint on it to some degree. Shape the bristles while they are wet and let them air dry.

Storing Your Brushes

Store your brushes upright in a container so the bristles don’t bend. I use a simple jar for organized storage and easy access. You can get carriers of all sizes at any art supply store if you need to transport your brushes and other painting supplies.

Painting

This Santa has a very simple palette. The cheek color is enhanced using powdered pastels lightly applied with a soft-bristle brush. Don’t flip the brush or it will contaminate the surrounding mustache.

FACE: medium flesh with shading flesh applied in the shadowed areas. Santa red is washed over the cheeks.

EYES: uniform blue, lamp black pupil with white highlight.

BEARD & HAIR: antique white with snow white drybrushed across higher ridges.

UNDERGARMENT & BANDS: Paynes grey with lamp black band.

COAT: Napa red with lamp black shading.

FUR TRIM: buttermilk with white drybrushed across high spots.

BELT & MITTENS: lamp black with copper accent lines.

FINISH: If you use any powdered pastels for cheek colors, blow any loose powder off before sealing with acrylic matte spray. This piece is antiqued using Indian Sand Trewax Floor Paste Wax applied with an old soft toothbrush. Immediately use Clear Trewax Paste Wax to pull off the excess Indian Sand. You may work back and forth using the two waxes, until you are satisfied with the effect. Allow the wax to set about three minutes; then buff with a soft brush or an old soft tee shirt.

MATERIALS

• Basswood, 3″ (7.6cm) thick: x 3-1/2″  x 7-1/2″ (8.9 x 19.1cm)
• Acrylic paints, such as DecoArt Americana: antique white, buttermilk, lamp black, medium flesh, Napa red, Payne’s gray, Santa red, shading flesh, snow white, uniform blue
• Acrylic sealer, such as DecoArt Americana: matte
• Trewax Floor Paste Wax: Indian sand/mahogany
• Trewax Paste Wax: clear

TOOLS

• Carving tools of choice
• Soft brush
• Clean cloth

Tina has been woodcarving since 1981 when she took a personal enrichment class through her local community college. Tina has authored several books including Creative Christmas Carving and Easy Weekend Carving Projects.

Making the Paint Rack

Cut the pieces as noted in the Materials List. I used a table saw. Use the drawings to mark the screw locations. Drill 1/16″ (2mm)-diameter pilot holes for the screws to keep the plywood from splitting. Countersink the holes in the acrylic so the screws sit flush with the surface. Sand all of the pieces so there are no sharp edges. Then, screw the pieces together.

Materials

• Plywood, 3/4″ (1.9cm) thick: sides,
2 each 7″ x 18 3/4″ (17.8cm x 47.6cm)

• Plywood, 3/4″ (1.9cm) thick: shelf 1, 1 1/2″ x 28 1/2″ (3.8cm x 72.4cm)

• Plywood, 3/4″ (1.9cm) thick: shelf 2, 3 1/8″ x 28 1/2″ (7.9cm x 72.4cm)

• Plywood, 3/4″ (1.9cm) thick: shelf 3, 4 3/4″ x 28 1/2″ (12.1cm x 72.4cm)

• Plywood, 3/4″ (1.9cm) thick: shelf 4 , 6 3/8″ x 28 1/2″ (16.2cm x 72.4cm)

• Tempered hardboard or plywood, 1/4″ (6mm) thick: back 18 3/4″ x 28 1/2″ (47.6cm x 72.4cm)

• Drywall screws, #8: 3/4″ (1.9cm) long;
1 5/8″ (4.1cm) long

• Clear acrylic plastic, such as Plexiglas,
1/8″ (3mm) thick: top shelves, 4″ x 28 1/2″ (10.2cm x 72.4cm); bottom shelf, 2 1/4″ x 28 1/2″ (5.7cm x 72.4cm)

Tools

• Table saw

• Drill with bits: 1/16″ (2mm), countersink

• Screwdriver

Steve Russell is from Independence, Iowa. He took up carving about eight years ago. Steve has won numerous awards at both the local and national levels. He has held classes and workshops at his studio and with the Northeast Iowa Woodcarvers Club. Contact Steve at sjr1953@hotmail.com.

Carving

I use a variety of hand tools to carve the wizard, ranging from large, flat gouges to tiny micro gouges. The carving will turn out better, and you will learn more, if you use the tools you are most comfortable carving with. To learn more about creating head and body proportions on human figures, check out The Rule of Three. 

To drill the hole in the hand for the scepter, it’s possible to use a drill and 1/8″ (3mm)-diameter bit, but I just use a 1/8″ (3mm) micro gouge. In the time it takes to find the drill and bit, I can drill through the hand with the gouge.

Painting

I usually mix my own colors; I can tell when someone has painted a carving using colors straight out of the bottle, and I think it looks a bit boring. For this piece, I use light washes of paint to build up the colors slowly. I tend to use the same color for a few elements in the same carving to help tie everything together.

For the exposed flesh, I mix naphthol red light with chromium oxide green. For the hat and robes, I mix naphthol red light with ultramarine blue. For the robe trim and cuffs, I mix naphthol red light with burnt umber. For the visible inside of the robe and for the scepter’s hat, I mix Payne’s gray with cadmium yellow light. For the scepter’s body and the spots on the robe, I use pale gold. When the gold is dry, add dots of titanium white. For the shoe, I use raw sienna. 

Paint the eye with full-strength mars black and allow it to dry. Paint a circle of full-strength chromium oxide green for the iris and allow that to dry. Paint the pupil with mars black, allowing a bit of the iris to remain visible. Add a titanium white highlight dot.

When the piece is fully dry, dry-brush titanium white over the whole piece to highlight the tool marks.

• Basswood, 2 3/4″ (7cm) thick: wizard, 2 3/4″ x 8 1/2″                   (7cm x 21.6cm)

• Basswood, 1/2″ (1.3cm) thick: scepter, 1/2″ x 4″                                (1.3cm x 10.2cm)

• Acrylic paints, such as Liquitex®: burnt umber, cadmium               yellow light, chromium oxide green, Mars black,                           naphthol red light, pale gold, Payne’s gray, raw sienna,               titanium white, ultramarine blue

• Knives: carving, detail

• #3 gouge: 3/4″ (19mm)

• #6 gouge: 1/2″ (13mm)

• V-tool: 1/4″ (6mm)

•Micro gouges: 1/8″ (3mm), 3/16″ (5mm)

• Drill with bit: 1/8″ (3mm)-diameter (optional)

• Paintbrushes: assorted

Don Dearolf painted for several years before taking up carving in 1994 after his brother Dave took him to the Lancaster County Woodcarvers Show. Don loves to carve and share patterns, blanks, and rough outs with others. Don lives in Lancaster, Pa., with his wife, Sue, and daughter, Kate.

For Diane

This piece is a tribute to a beloved sister-in-law, Diane Nelson, who died from breast cancer in 2019. She absolutely loved autumn and Halloween, and I carved a unique Santa for her every Christmas for her collection. She was an artist and art teacher, and I inherited a box of paints from her. I wanted to use them to make something special.

Getting Started

Transfer the pattern to the blank. Cut the profiles with a band saw, and then mark the major landmarks.

Carving

Use a rough out knife to block out the arms, cat, jack-o’-lantern, and foot. Knock off the sharp corners and round the features. Redraw the detail lines as you remove wood. Drill a 1/4″ (6mm)-dia. hole into the hand you will insert the staff before carving the knuckles. Use the knife to shape the cat. Separate the head from the hood, and then carve the nose and eye sockets. Carve the hair and adjust the beard and mustache to your desired length. Round the back of the hood. Draw the eyes, round out the eyeballs, and then create the forehead. Use the tip of the knife to carve the jack-o’-lantern’s face and ridges. Add creases and folds throughout the robe. Carve the staff and raven separately, and then attach the bird to the end of the staff with a toothpick and glue. Secure the staff in the hand with glue.

Painting and Finishing

Wash the carving in warm water with a soft brush and liquid dish soap, such as Dawn®. Let dry, and then seal the carving with a coat of semigloss clear polyurethane spray. I went for a traditional Halloween look (see Paint Notes below). The details on the coat are painted, but you could woodburn them, if desired. Apply three part nautral and one part dark of Watco® wax with a clean brush. Wipe off the wax immediately with a cotton cloth. 

Paint Notes

Face: warm beige (1), drybrushed with burnt orange (1)

Hands: warm beige (1)

Robe: black (4), cadmium yellow (3), pumpkin calabaza (2), titanium white (4)

Crow: black (4)

Cat: baby pink (1), black (4), light olive green (1), baby pink (1)

Eyes: black (4), titanium white (4), light olive green (1)

Hair, eyebrows, and beard: dolphin grey (3), drybrushed with light ivory (3) and titanium white (4)

Jack-o’-lantern: black (4), lantern orange (1), woodland green (1)

Staff and shoe: burnt umber (1)

1 – Americana®

2 – Anita’s

3 – Ceramcoat®

4 – Craft Smart®

• Basswood, 2 1/2″ (6.4cm) thick: Santa 2 3/4″ x  7″  (7cm x 17.8cm)

• Basswood, 5/8″ (1.6cm) thick: staff  3/8″ x 6 3/4″ (1cm x 17.1cm)

• Basswood, 1/2″ (1.3cm) thick: raven 3/4″ x 2 3/8″ (1.9cm x 6cm)

• Marker and pencil

• Glue: wood

• Toothpicks

• Cleaner and degreaser, such as Dawn®

• Cotton cloths

• Acrylic paints, such as Americana®: baby pink, burnt orange, burnt umber, lantern orange, light olive green, warm beige, woodland green; such as Anita’s: pumpkin calabaza; such as Ceramcoat®: cadmium yellow, dolphin grey, light ivory; such as Craft Smart®: black, titanium white

• Finish: semigloss clear polyurenthane spray, such as Deft®

• Antique wax finish, such as Watco®

• Band saw

• Knife: rough out

• Drill with bit: 1/4″ (6mm)-dia. 

• Paintbrushes: assorted

• Woodburner (optional)

Russell Scott of St. Paul, Minn., has been carving since 1999. He is the author of Carving Undercover Santas by Fox Chapel Publishing and teaches online and in person at carving shows and meetings. Check out his free instructional videos on YouTube at Scottcarvings. See more of his work on Etsy and purchase his roughouts at scottcarvings.com.

Paint Notes

• Wheels and handle: lamb black (1)
• Metal pull handle bars: Quaker gray (2)
• Suitcase body: tomato red (1) shaded with black plum (1)
• Belt: cocoa (1) shaded with burnt sienna (1)
• Buckle: antique gold (1)
• Tag: antique white (2)
• Sticker: primary yellow (1) and lamb black (1)

1 Americana®   

2 Ceramcoat® 

• Basswood, 1″ (2.5cm) thick: 1 1/2″ x 2 3/8″ (3.8cm x 6cm)

• Acrylic paints, such as Americana®: antique gold, black plum, burnt sienna, cocoa, lamp black, primary yellow, tomato red; such as Ceramcoat®: antique white, Quaker gray

• Detail knife

Wayne Laramore Wayne was elected into the CCA in 2016 and resides in Sparta, Ill., with his wife Pat. He is a father of two and grandfather of four. See more of Wayne’s work at laramorewoodcarving.com. 

Carving the Bear

I carve most of this caricature bear with a knife, but I use a couple of V-tools to outline the clothes, shoes, and hat. I use a 1/8″ (3mm) #11 micro veiner to carve the eyes.

I paint most of this piece with thin washes of acrylic paint. I usually thin 1 part paint with 3 parts water to create a light coat that you can see the wood grain through. I apply the paint with circular blending strokes to keep it even. Use unthinned paint for the eyes, buttons, and stars. To make the stars, load a toothpick tip with paint and dot the wood. Then, drag the paint out from the center of the dot to make a five-pointed star. You can practice on scrap wood, but stars don’t need to be perfect.

To antique the carving, fill a large jar with linseed oil and add a 1″ (25mm)-long ribbon of raw umber oil paint. Mix thoroughly, and then dip the carving into the jar from the top and the bottom. Allow the excess stain to drip off, and wipe away any remaining stain with paper towels. (The stain-soaked paper towels are a fire hazard.) Allow the stain to dry overnight.

MATERIALS:

• Basswood, 2 1/2″ (64mm) thick: 3″ x 6″
(76mm x 152mm)

• Acrylic paint: coffee bean brown, white, tangerine orange, black, charcoal black, burnt umber, opaque red, navy blue, bright yellow

• Boiled linseed oil

• Raw umber oil paint

TOOLS:

• Band saw

• Carving knife

• Detail knife

• V-tools: 5/32″ (4mm),
5/16″ (8mm), 3/8″ (10mm)

• #11 micro-veiner:
1/8″ (3mm)

• Paintbrushes: spotter, #2 shader, #4 shader,
#6 shader

• Toothpicks

Mike Shipley of Dora, Mo., owns OCCTools with his wife, Sherry. The author of several books, Mike is also a popular carving instructor. For more of his work, visit www.occtools.com.