Painting a Jaguar

Mix equal parts apricot, golden brown, and white to make gold paint. Dilute the paint 50 percent with  water and paint the gold areas. Mix white paint 1:1 with water and paint the white areas. While the paint is still wet, use a circular motion to blend the two colors where they meet. You may need to dilute the paint further to make the colors easier to blend. Allow the piece to dry thoroughly before painting the rest of the carving.

Iris: Mix gold with a touch of nutmeg brown;
thin slightly with water

Nose: Mix gold with khaki; thin slightly with water.
Grade to black at edges.

Markings: Black; thin slightly with water

Ears: Black; thin heavily with water

Rosettes on sides and back of head: nutmeg brown;
thin heavily with water

Painting a Black Panther

Thin dark charcoal gray paint 1:1 with water. Paint the entire carving and let dry.

Iris: Mix gold with a touch of nutmeg brown;
thin slightly with water

Nose: Pinkish brown darkening to black

Markings: Black; thin slightly with water

Using a Natural Finish

I carved this panther from butternut, applied a walnut stain, and finished it with Danish oil. To make the eye stand out, paint the pupil black and add a white highlight dot.

MATERIALS

• Basswood or butternut, 7/8″ (2.2cm) thick: 3″ x 4″ (7.6cm x 10.2cm)

•  Acrylic paint, such as Plaid Apple Barrel: black, white, khaki, apricot, golden brown, nutmeg brown, pink; black panther only: charcoal gray

• Danish oil (optional)

• Stain: walnut (optional)

TOOLS

• Detail knife with a 7/8″ (22mm)-long blade, such as a Notto

• Veiner: 1/16″ (2mm) such as Dockyard (optional)

•Paintbrush: #2 round, such as Loew-Cornell

Don Self began whittling Boy Scout neckerchief slides in 1987. After retiring from a career in geology, Don returned to his native Alabama, where he joined the Tannehill Wood Carvers Club. He enjoys creating human and animal caricatures, and particularly relishes the challenge of converting an outrageous mental image into a 3-D wooden sculpture. Don typically works in basswood, painting each sculpture with acrylics, but he also enjoys working in butternut, cypress, and water oak, where the figure of the wood takes center stage.

Carving

Cut the basic shapes with a band or scroll saw and carve the cats with your tools of choice. I use small palm gouges and a detail knife to work the pieces into shape and carve the details. I don’t sand the pieces, preferring to leave the carving marks to enhance the folk-art feel.

Finishing

I finish my carvings in a four-step process. First, seal the carving by applying a thin layer of boiled linseed oil thinned to a 1:1 mix with mineral spirits. Let the mixture soak in for a bit, and then wipe off the excess with a clean cotton rag. Let the carving dry overnight. Next, apply acrylic paints thinned slightly with water. Layer the paints, shading with darker tones. When the paint is dry, seal it with high-quality fast-drying satin polyurethane. Apply the polyurethane as thinly as possible, but work it into all of the crevices. Let the carving dry overnight. Finally, antique the carving with oil-based gel wood stain. Slather the gel stain on, and then immediately wipe it off with a cotton rag. Let the carving dry overnight.

Painting Guide

Dark Cat

• Base for body: dark chocolate (1)

• Stripe detail: black (1): striping detail

• Facial details, stripe highlights: antique white (2)

• Inside of ears: flesh (3)

Orange Cat

• Base for body: antique gold (1)

• Lowlights for body: Jack o’ lantern orange (1)

• Stripe details: rookwood red (1)

• Facial details and paws: antique white (3)

• Nose, inside of ears: flesh (2)

1 Americana

2 Apple Barrel

3 Ceramcoat

MATERIALS

• Basswood, 3/4″ (1.9cm) thick: dark cat, 1-5/8″ x 1 7/8″ (4.1cm x 4.8cm)

• Basswood, 3/4″ (1.9cm) thick: orange cat, 1-1/2″ x 2-1/4″ (3.8cm x 5.7cm)

• Acrylic paints: see Painting Guide above

• Boiled linseed oil

• Mineral spirits

• Fast-drying satin polyurethane

• Oil-based gel wood stain: antique oak, colonial, or old oak

• Cotton rags

TOOLS

• Knives: carving, detail

• Gouges: assorted small

• Saws: band or scroll

• Pencil

• Paintbrushes: assorted

Bristles

Naturally, the bristles are the most important part of the brush. They are made either with synthetic fibers (these are very “springy” and smooth in texture), natural fibers (hair of various animals—kolinsky sable, pony, hog, etc.) or a combination of the two fibers.

Natural bristles have barbs or scales, which make them thicker, stiffer, and a little harder to clean. Due to their stiffness, natural bristle brushes are mainly used for canvas painting with thicker paint. Typically, they are more expensive than synthetic brushes; however, some can be less expensive than the synthetic options.

Synthetic brushes, which are smoother and springier than their natural counterparts, go with a variety of paints and are typically easier to clean. I use mainly synthetic brushes for applying paint, but I reserve some natural bristle brushes for blending. Pricing depends on the size; I spend $3-$5 on smaller brushes and $10-$15 on larger ones. However, buying a set is usually cheaper.

Rounds

Workhorse of the set; used for applying paint and washes.

Flats

Used for painting large areas and adding textures, such as house or roof details.

Angled flats

Used like regular flats, but tip can reach into smaller areas.

Filberts

Good for blending or painting a soft edge.

Used for fine lines and detail

Blenders

Used to blur the border between two colors to form a gradation of color.

Fan brushes

Used to paint textured areas like clouds, trees, or leaves.

“Spoiled” brushes

Great for blending and adding texture (It may be the Yankee in me, but I have a hard time throwing a brush out!).

Washing Your Brushes

When using acrylics, have a container of water ready to wash your brushes instantly because the paint dries so quickly. Note: It is safe to wash acrylic paint off in your work or household sink. Use warm—not hot—water; hot water can cause the glue used to secure the bristles to fail.

Clean your oil paint brushes in a paint thinner before washing with water. Note: You can leave your paint thinner in a sealed jar, let the pigment settle, and reuse at a later time. Be sure to collect oil paint sludge and dispose of it at your local hazardous waste site. Do your best to remove all the paint, especially from the ferrule; paint left to dry here will cause the bristles to splay out and separate. 

After you wash your brushes in paint thinner and squeeze them with a cloth, give them a final wash with a brush cleaner; I like The Master’s Brush Cleaner (use as directed). A good brush cleaner will even restore a brush with hardened paint on it to some degree. Shape the bristles while they are wet and let them air dry.

Storing Your Brushes

Store your brushes upright in a container so the bristles don’t bend. I use a simple jar for organized storage and easy access. You can get carriers of all sizes at any art supply store if you need to transport your brushes and other painting supplies.

Carve the scarecrow first and then drill a 1/8″-dia. hole for the stem. Carve the stem from a piece of scrap wood and glue it into the hole.

Thin the paints to the consistency of a stain. For darker paint colors, apply two coats of paint. Let the paint dry and then use undiluted black for the pumpkin’s face. You can add a plaid pattern to the shirt using an ultra-fine black Sharpie. After the paint dries, apply wax with a toothbrush. Allow the wax to dry for 30 minutes and then buff it with a shoe brush.

MATERIALS:

• Basswood, 3/4″ (19mm) thick: 3″ x 3-1/2″ (7.6cm x 8.9cm)

• Scrap of basswood (pumpkin stem)

• Acrylic paints, such as Apple Barrel: black, brown, cardinal crimson, harvest orange, woodland green; FolkArt: midnight; Ceramcoat: straw

• Wax, such as Minwax dark special

TOOLS:

• Bench knife

• Drill with 1/8″ (3mm)-dia. bit

• Toothbrush

• Shoe brush

• #2 Paintbrush: round

Gerald Smith has been carving since he was a boy.  In the early 1970s, Gerald moved to Colorado Springs, Colo., where he got involved with the Wood Carver’s Museum and started carving more actively. A friend gave Gerald’s business the name of “Santa’s Whiskers” because of Gerald’s beard and the Santas he carves. 

Brush Soap

Brushes should be cleaned well with a good quality soap when you finish painting. While painting, rinse the brushes in water and occasionally dip into an extender such as Jo Sonja’s Retarder to keep the paint from drying in the bristles until you have time to clean them.

Containers for Water

You’ll need two water containers; one to rinse the paint from your brush and the other to pick up water as you paint. Dirty water will change the color of your paint, so keep this container clean. A useful addition to your painting supplies is a brush basin that is divided into two sections with ridges in the bottom. Gently stroke brushes across the ridges to get all of the paint out.

Containers for Mediums, Such as Flow Medium and Clear Glaze Medium

You will need at least two small containers to hold mediums. These can be anything from the cap for a bottle to small candle cups or eggcups.

Disposable Acrylic Palette Paper

Paper palettes are available in pads. These are needed for color mixing and dry palette blending. Make sure the paper you select has one slick side. Pads of palette paper listed for use of both acrylic and oils, which do not have the slick side, may absorb the moisture from acrylic paint too quickly.

Distilled Water in a Squeeze Bottle

Use distilled water if storing your palette of colors in a closed container for any length of time. Some tap water contains mold that may grow and contaminate the paint.

Palette Knife

A plastic, bent-blade palette knife is great for mixing colors and mediums. They’re inexpensive and easy to clean.

Paper Towels

Use inexpensive paper towels to set up your wet palette. Thick paper towels may be used for wiping your brush when painting. Fold them into quarters to save space in your work area.

Pencil and Pencil Sharpener

A #2HB pencil is the easiest to find. Your pencil may be used for drawing or making notes in your sketchbook. The pencil sharpener will also be used to sharpen soapstone (see below).

Sandpaper

Small pieces of various grits of sandpaper are used both for surface preparation and painting. Medium- or light-colored sandpaper will not lose its color on the background. Fingernail files, which are available in a variety of grades, are excellent for hard to reach places.

Sketchbook or Journal

A spiral bound sketchbook or a small journal should be kept for gathering inspiration, color samples, and notes. Glue a mylar pocket from an office supply store to the back to hold small things

Soapstone

Soapstone or plumber’s chalk comes in a stick. It is available at hardware stores in the plumbing supplies. Sharpen the soapstone with a pencil sharpener as needed. This is used to sketch onto the surface of carvings because the lines are easily removed.

Towel for Work Area

An old towel or cloth protects the work surface and provides a cushion for your project.

Wet Palette

A wet palette is used for paint storage and may be set up using any shallow container. A wet palette may be as simple as a paper plate or a foam meat tray. An airtight container for food storage will keep paint workable for several days or weeks. Lay a damp paper towel on top of your palette, and apply the paint on top of the paper towel.

Vicki Rhodes has authored books and numerous magazine articles.