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 Features

	Creature of Habit For this nun, woodcarving and religious vocation go hand in hand By Hannah Carroll
	Dust Collection Roundup Consider these options for keeping your woodshop—and lungs—free of dust By Jon Deck
	Pencil Me In Gifted graphite carver makes minuscule sculptures using an X-Acto blade and a microscope By Kaylee Schofield

Techniques

	Blast Off! This three-part carve will make you want to suit up for space travel By Rick Stoddard
	Realistic Tropical Fish Power carve a butterfly fish as vibrant as its namesake By James Spencer

Projects

	Friendly Field Mouse Don’t let its size fool you! This little rodent packs a punch By Betty Padden Get additional patterns of Betty Padden’s mouse project below!
	Circle of Chips Alternate two striking chip types in this summery, modern wall hanging By Bernat Mercader
	Matchbox Aquarium Carve a little fish habitat using minimal materials and tools By Steve Tomashek
	Whittled Unicorn Complete this petite project in just seven steps By Lieve Roelants
	Simple Scallop Shell Practice undercutting and line work on this elegant relief By Lucy Fox Get the additional pattern of the scallop shell below!
	Chip Carved Earrings A soothing aloe leaf pattern gives these statement pieces a natural touch By Amy Costello
	Three-Point Ribbon Create a classic wooden whimsy with just a Dremel and a knife By Garth Burgon
	Classic Bread Bowl Detail this stylish vessel with milk paint and sand the facets for a rustic finish By Luke Voytas
	Fearless Freddie A hungry shark is no match for this beach-bound frog By Bob Hershey
	Chip Carved Jewelry Box Adorn a standard container with this dynamic sunburst By Tatiana Baldina
	Volute Ladle Add sophistication to your table with a spoon fit for the symphony By Mark Ivan Fortune
	Stylized Sharks Whittle two classic ocean predators in one sitting By Tom Hindes

Online Exclusives

Free Project  Visit our website for a bonus, step-by-step tutorial on carving a swashbuckling caricature by Jim Feather.

[button link=”https://woodcarving.zeeframes.com/?p=20049&preview=true” bg_color=”#ff0000″]Click here for the project [/button]

Free Bonus Patterns Download your extra patterns for the Friendly Field Mouse, Simple Scallop Shell, and a Geometric Spoon Design from Dave Western’s new book below.

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The post Woodcarving Illustrated Summer 2021, Issue #95 appeared first on Woodcarving Illustrated.

In this week’s video, Giles Newman walks you through every step of carving an ivy leaf pendant in oak wood, using one of the pendant carving kits available now on his website. The video is an hour long, but the sound of his knife against the grain and the birds in the background make it a breeze to watch. To dive deeper into his process, be sure to watch this video, as well—Step 1: The Cut Out.

About the Author

Giles has a background in photography and graphic design, and a lifelong passion for the wilderness. Five years ago, he taught himself woodcarving as a way to spend more time in the small wooded area he manages in the mountains of North Wales. Using only an axe and a knife, he began carving wooden spoons from windfallen wood. Since the weather in the UK makes for a plentiful supply of naturally fallen wood, Giles found no need to seek alternative sources. He soon abandoned his life as a designer and photographer to pursue woodcarving full-time.

“I wanted to have a minimal impact on nature which in turn, I hope, serves to reinforce rather than undermine my creative intentions.”

Giles uses the natural features of wood, such as knots and other elements often considered imperfections, as a guide for creating. Instead of seeing the wood as a blank canvas and forcing his ideas into reality, Giles “finds and interprets the forms that already exist within.”

To learn more, visit Giles’ website, Instagram, Facebook, and YouTube.

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The post Woodcarving Wednesday: Carve an Ivy Leaf Pendant With Giles Newman appeared first on Woodcarving Illustrated.

In this week’s video, longtime contributor and CCA member Bob Hershey demonstrates how to carve natural-looking rocks. Be sure to also watch Betty Padden’s video on how to paint realistic stone texture so you can take your carves to the next level!

Also, be sure to check out these fantastic new Fox Chapel books:

Carving & Painting Adorable Animals in Wood by Desiree HajnyWith helpful tips and notes throughout to capture a realistic yet playful essence of 12 animals, this advanced pattern book is perfect for woodcarvers looking to challenge their skills.

Carving Creative Walking Sticks and Canes by Paul PurnellThis book features 13 step-by-step projects for both intermediate and advanced woodcarvers, progressing from simple sticks to a couple of highly detailed and decorative cane heads.

About the Author

Bob Hershey is a retired truck driver who began carving in 1982. He is a member of the Conewago Carvers and Lancaster County Woodcarvers clubs. He enters the local club shows; Artistry in Wood in Dayton, Ohio; and the Caricature Carvers of America competitions. Bob carves a great variety of subjects, and teaches classes in animal caricatures and themed bark houses. He lives in Lititz, Pa., with his wife, Debby.

The post Woodcarving Wednesdays: How to Carve Rocks appeared first on Woodcarving Illustrated.

In this week’s video, woodcarving professional Chris Lubkemann demonstrates how to whittle an owl—using one knife and one piece of wood—in one short sitting.

Interested in learning more? This friendly guidebook from Chris Lubkemann features 18 step-by-step whittling projects for knives, forks, birds, animals, trees, flowers,and more. Also includes chapters on proper whittling tools and materials, what woods are best to carve, and how to start projects by selecting and safely sharpening the best knife for each project.

About the Author

Chris is the author of four other best-selling whittling books from Fox Chapel Publishing: The Little Book Of Whittling, Big Book Of Whittle Fun, Whittling Twigs & Branches, and Tree Craft. A child of missionaries, Chris Lubkemann grew up in the forests of Brazil and Peru, where he developed an appreciation for knives and entertained himself—and others—by handcrafting rafts, tree houses, traps, and slingshots from scrap wood. Since that time, he has continued to integrate his woodworking skills with good old-fashioned fun. Chris has carved some of the world’s smallest branch carvings, and his smallest branch rooster was given a Guinness World Record Certificate. Chris currently demonstrates whittling as the resident woodcarver at the Amish Farm and House in Lancaster, Pennsylvania.

Get the Summer 2020 issue: [button link=”https://www.foxchapelpublishing.com/woodcarving-illustrated-issue-91-summer-2020.html” bg_color=”#ff0000″]Purchase the Issue[/button] For more articles like this, subscribe to Woodcarving Illustrated magazine. [button link=”https://www.foxchapelpublishing.com/wood-carving-illustrated-subscription.html” bg_color=”#ff0000″]Magazine Subscription[/button] Plus! Get digital mini magazines in your e-mail between printed issues. [button link=”https://woodcarving.zeeframes.com/enews/” bg_color=”#ff0000″]Subscribe to Strop Talk[/button]

The post Woodcarving Wednesdays: Whittle a Bird from a Branch appeared first on Woodcarving Illustrated.

Have you ever wanted to try chip carving, but felt a little intimidated? In this week’s video, professional chip carver Marty Leenhouts demonstrates there’s nothing to be afraid of. You’ll learn how to quickly apply a pattern, avoid chip out, and carve common shapes. Check out Marty’s video below to chip carve a coaster with ease.

[button link=”https://wci.shortstack.com/2bQkkZ” bg_color=”#ff0000″] Chip Carved Coaster Pattern [/button]

For more on chip carving, be sure to check out Joy of Chip Carving by Wayne Barton. In this comprehensive guide, Wayne offers expert instruction and inspiration based on a lifetime of study, understanding, practice, and achievement. Detailing his methodologies on how to layout, carve, and finish, this book is a must-have for any chip carving enthusiast.

About the Author

Marty Leenhouts is a regular contributor to Woodcarving Illustrated and the author of Chip Carving Essentials: A Step-By-Step Guide to Successful Chip Carving. The owner of MyChipCarving.com and EZcarving.com, he has 30 years of teaching experience. His instructional videos have 3+ million views and can be found on YouTube by searching for “MyChipCarving.”

Get the Spring 2020 issue: [button link=”https://foxchapelpublishing.com/woodcarving-illustrated-issue-90-spring-2020.html” bg_color=”#ff0000″]Purchase the Issue[/button] For more articles like this, subscribe to Woodcarving Illustrated magazine. [button link=”https://www.foxchapelpublishing.com/wood-carving-illustrated-subscription.html” bg_color=”#ff0000″]Magazine Subscription[/button] Plus! Get digital mini magazines in your e-mail between printed issues. [button link=”https://woodcarving.zeeframes.com/enews/” bg_color=”#ff0000″]Subscribe to Strop Talk[/button]

The post Woodcarving Wednesdays: Chip Carved Coasters appeared first on Woodcarving Illustrated.

This week, Betty Padden demonstrates how to create realistic stone texture. Betty has taught carving and painting tips to students for more than three decades. Her most recent work—the Mythical Woodland Cottage—was featured in WCI Spring 2020 (Issue 90), and the upcoming Summer 2020 (Issue 91). Be sure to subscribe to Woodcarving Illustrated to learn how to carve and paint your own ethereal escape.   Now, sit back, relax, and enjoy this week’s video!

For more of Betty Padden’s paint guides and blending techniques, be sure to check out her recent book Carving and Painting Noah’s Ark: Easy-Build Ark Plans Plus Step-by-Step Instructions and Patterns for Classic Animals. This comprehensive guide shows you how to create your own big in-the-round Noah’s Ark to use as either a delightful children’s toy or a functional art collectible. Betty also reveals her layered techniques for transforming a major project into simpler, doable carvings, while adding a touch of whimsy along the way.

About the Author

Betty Padden and her husband, Bob, own Wooden Apple Signmakers in Auburn, Mass. They have been professional sign carvers for 35 years and have been teaching their craft to students for more than 30 years. They are the creators of SantaCarls®, a unique figure that has been sold at Disney parks and Busch Gardens. Betty also designs and paints for Ne’Qwa Art and Blossom Bucket, among other companies. Visit bettypadden.com for cut outs, patterns, and designs, and help for woodcarvers struggling with projects. See more of Betty’s work at woodenapplesignmakers.com.

Get the Spring 2020 issue: [button link=”https://foxchapelpublishing.com/woodcarving-illustrated-issue-90-spring-2020.html” bg_color=”#ff0000″]Purchase the Issue[/button] For more articles like this, subscribe to Woodcarving Illustrated magazine. [button link=”https://foxchapelpublishing.com/magazines.html” bg_color=”#ff0000″]Magazine Subscription[/button] Plus! Get digital mini magazines in your e-mail between printed issues. [button link=”https://woodcarving.zeeframes.com/enews/” bg_color=”#ff0000″]Subscribe to Strop Talk[/button]

The post Woodcarving Wednesdays: Painting Stone Texture appeared first on Woodcarving Illustrated.

Whittling artist, carving teacher, and regular contributor to WCI Tom Hindes has designed an adorable angelfish that will help ease you into the summer season. You may even find yourself daydreaming of palm trees and a salty island breeze. This project is great for any carver—beginner or pro—and only requires one tool to complete! Check out the video below to whittle along with Tom.

[button link=”https://wci.shortstack.com/4mHX3W” bg_color=”#ff0000″] Angel Fish Pattern [/button]

Also, be sure to order Tom’s best-selling book, 20-Minute Whittling Projects, and his brand-new sequel, Whittling In Your Free Time. Both offer friendly instructions and step-by-step photos, and you’ll learn how to carve an endless array of charming wizards, gnomes, gargoyles, dogs, horses, and more!

About the Author

Tom Hindes started whittling and carving in the early 2000s. Now retired from a career in technical training development at Ohio State University, Tom lives in Port St. joe, Fla. He carves Noah’s arks, Christmas ornaments, wizards, and gnomes. He is the author of 20-Minute Whittling, available from Fox Chapel Publishing.

Get the Spring 2020 issue: [button link=”https://foxchapelpublishing.com/woodcarving-illustrated-issue-90-spring-2020.html” bg_color=”#ff0000″]Purchase the Issue[/button] For more articles like this, subscribe to Woodcarving Illustrated magazine. [button link=”https://foxchapelpublishing.com/magazines.html” bg_color=”#ff0000″]Magazine Subscription[/button] Plus! Get digital mini magazines in your e-mail between printed issues. [button link=”https://woodcarving.zeeframes.com/enews/” bg_color=”#ff0000″]Subscribe to Strop Talk[/button]

The post Woodcarving Wednesdays: Learn to Whittle an Angelfish appeared first on Woodcarving Illustrated.

Transform a basswood egg into a simple tree just in time for Christmas

By Lori Dickie

You should be able to carve this fun, cute, and quick Christmas tree almost as fast as you drew the pattern onto the turned Santa egg.

Carving the Tree

While carving it from an egg will speed up the process, you could easily start with a rectangular piece of wood. Trace the outline of the pattern onto the blank, cut off the excess, and round the corners to make the tree shape. If you start with a Santa egg, carve off the ring that’s intended for the hat trim to create a soft cone-shaped blank. Then, draw the branches, make stop cuts along the branches, and carve up to the stop cuts to separate the boughs of the branches. Go back and add some individual branch texture with a micro V-tool. Use a woodburner with a writing tip to remove any fuzzies from under the boughs of branches.

Painting the Tree

Paint the entire tree with Delta Ceramcoat hunter green acrylic paint. When the paint is dry, dry-brush a few accents onto the edges of the boughs and the top of the tree with Americana white acrylic paint. After the paint is dry, seal the carving with matte varnish.

Materials:
• Basswood turned Santa: small #2 size (1-3/4″ x 3-5/8″, or 4.4cm x 9.2cm)
• Graphite paper
• Acrylic paint, such as Delta Ceramcoat: hunter green; such as Americana: white
• Varnish: matte

Tools: 
• Carving knife
• Woodburner with writing tip
• Micro (2mm) V-tool
• Pencil
• Paintbrush

CLICK HERE to download the Simple Tree Pattern.

About the Author
Lori Dickie lives in Michigan with her husband, Steve, three Rhodesian Ridgebacks, and 80 chickens. She has been carving for 18 years and displays her work at local shows and at www.Lmdickiel.etsy.com.

Complete instructions to carve the cute Snowman shown in the photo above can be found in Woodcarving Illustrated Holiday 2013 (Issue 65). Click Here to purchase the issue.

For more adorable and fast carvings, check out Quick and Cute Carving Projects: Patterns for 46 Projects to Carve in One Day by Lori Dickie. Learn the basics of caricature carving with quick and easy first-time projects that use just blank basswood “eggs” and a few simple cuts. Includes clear carving and painting instructions, color photographs, step-by-step projects, and ready-to-use patterns. Available for $15.99 plus S&H from www.FoxChapelPublishing.com.

The post Quick and Cute Christmas Tree appeared first on Woodcarving Illustrated.

by Roger Schroeder

There are probably as many clamping methods as there are carvers because every carver holds his or her own carving differently. But most have very similar roots—and are based on a few simple ideas.

Holding

Unless you are planning to hold your carving in one hand and carve with the other, you will need some way to stabilize your project.  Holding devices are essential if you plan to use a mallet and chisel or if the piece is too small or delicate to hold easily. Fortunately, there are many commercially available options to secure your work for carving.

Carver’s Vise

A carver’s vise is a great investment for any carver. Before purchasing one, check whether it is adjustable in all three axes. That means you can position the project side to side as well as up and down and from front to back. Also investigate the vise’s gripping power and slippage. There must be enough surface on the mounting plate, or between the jaws, to accommodate the carving so that it doesn’t move when worked on, especially if a mallet is used.

Carver’s Arm

Long before manufactured holding and clamping fixtures came into being, the carver’s arm dominated. Designed like the human arm—hence, the name—to bend at a hinge point, the wood components provide the up-and-down positioning. To allow the project to be rotated from side to side, a separate carver’s screw is used at the end of the arm.  A carver’s arm is not difficult to make—I recommend maple—but reasonably priced arms can be purchased through catalogs.

Alligator Clips

Alligator clips have probably been around since Doctor Frankenstein hooked up his monster for a cosmic jolt. When mounted on a bar attached to a base, they become indispensable for holding delicate objects. If you are a carver who needs a third or even fourth hand, grab the alligator clips. I’ve seen clothespin-looking gadgets with two alligator clips attached, and I’ve come across devices with three clips.  Just make sure the clip or clip base is securely held to keep it from toppling over.

Machinist’s Vise

I suspect that several generations of carvers have used a machinist’s vise to hold a project. To protect the wood and the tools from the jaws, strips of a soft wood have to be attached. If a fancy carver’s vise is not in the budget, and there’s that machinist’s vise inherited from dad, try out a new accessory called Soff Jaws. Cushioned pads ³/8” thick cover magnetic strips that keep the pads in place. They really work.

Clamping to Join

Clamps are generally used to join two pieces of wood together. Carvers will often laminate wood for a large carving, but there are times when irregularly shaped pieces need to be added to compensate for an area that was mistakenly removed or to fill in a bad spot.

Rubber Bands

Irregularly shaped objects are sometimes impossible to clamp with anything but a piece of elastic rubber.  I usually have to hunt around in a pile of rubber bands to find one that offers just the right amount of stretch. When more “squeeze” is required, I apply two rubber bands or double up a single one.

Web Clamp

Another tool that serves a purpose similar to the rubber band is the web clamp. Wrap a length of nylon webbing around a project in need of gluing, and pull the webbing taut with a ratchet mechanism—a surprising amount of pressure can be exerted.  An advantage of the web clamp is that one wrap offers much more clamping area than a single rubber band.

Clamping to Hold & Join

There are many devices developed specifically for holding your work in progress or for joining wood. But some clamps, both old standbys and  newcomers, are better designed for getting a good grip on the work. And a  few are capable of both holding and joining.

C, Quick-Change, Spring, and Toggle Clamps

When carving a small relief panel, either a pair of C, spring, quick-change or toggle clamps will hold the wood to my workbench.

C clamps are old standbys to many carvers, and I have about a dozen in my shop, with openings that range from about 1″ to 12″.

But there’s a lot to be said about quick-change clamps, since C clamps require a lot of effort and time to open and close. Slide the jaws of a quick-change clamp together and simply squeeze the pistol grip to tighten them; to release the pressure, pull a trigger. I’m particularly impressed with two other features. One is the soft jaws that protect a delicate project or finish. The other is the ability to tighten or release a clamp with a single hand in a matter of seconds.

The one downside to the tool is slippage and clamping pressure. Using a mallet sets up vibrations that tend to weaken the grip.  And don’t expect to glue up panels or other laminated projects when using polyvinyl acetate glues. Quick-change clamps do not provide the needed pressure for a good bond.

Another tool that opens and closes quickly is the spring clamp. With protective polyvinyl handles and tips, they comes in mini-sizes, offering a clamping force of only a few pounds. But beefier cousins with an opening of an impressive 4″ are available that will exert as much as 35 pounds of force.

Toggle clamps combine a rubber-tipped hold-down with a lever handle. Push the handle down or pull it up, and the hold-down locks in place. The problem with these tools, and the ones described above, is that they get in the way of the project. Consider using a long backing board that the project can be screwed to. The clamps grip the board and stay well out of the way.

Bar and Pipe Clamps

A rectangular section of steel, the bar clamp has a fixed head with an adjustable screw and an adjustable tail slide. These devices were the only game in town for generations until they fell into disfavor for several reasons: Set lengths—most commonly 4 and 6-footers—had to be purchased; the clamps were expensive; and there was the advent of the pipe clamp.

Also consisting of head and tail pieces, the pipe clamp fits any available length of ³/4“-diameter pipe threaded on one end. Screw the head in place; slide the tail, which has a disc clutch to keep it from moving, onto the pipe; and the clamp is ready.

Carvers doing small figures use pipe and bar clamps as holding fixtures. To use, simply grip the project between the jaws, and tighten the clamp down in a vise. Another take on the vise would be to attach a flange to the bottom of the pipe. Bolt the flange to your workbench, and you’re on your way.

Watch your tools when using a metal clamp to hold your work—one false move will give you a nicked blade!

The new “fast action” design brings bar clamps up to date. A typical fast-action bar clamp consists of one fixed jaw and one sliding jaw with a ball-joined shoe at the end of a handle and screw.  After the two jaws close on a project, the handle is turned, which locks the moveable jaw in place.

At my favorite home improvement store I find fast-action bar clamps with openings as little as 4″ and as much as 50″. But more important than length is the depth of the throat. C clamps, by comparison, rarely have a “reach” of more than a few inches. Typical medium-duty fast-action clamps, however, have a reach of 7″ with openings ranging from 18″ to 48″. For holding wide panels to my workbench or glue-joining wide blocks of wood, I gravitate to short but deep-throated bar clamps.

There’s a clamp for every project, with many available at your favorite home improvement center or hardware store. Most won’t tax your budget. So don’t be afraid to get a grip on a few good tools that will last a lifetime. They’re worth the investment.

About the Author

Roger Schroeder, of Amityville, N.Y., is a retired teacher, accomplished author, and the founding editor of Woodcarving Illustrated.

This article first appeared in Woodcarving Illustrated Spring 2006 (Issue 34).

Discuss this material on the Woodcarving Illustrated forums.

The post All About Clamps & Vises appeared first on Woodcarving Illustrated.

by Chuck Solomon and Dave Hamilton

Photos of bits in use courtesy of Foredom

This article was first published in issue 48 of Woodcarving Illustrated.

In power carving, the bur or bit is the part of the tool that does that actual wood removal. The power carving tool, such as a flexible shaft machine or micro motor, spins the bit at a high speed and the cutting surface or abrasive on the bit removes the wood. Power carving bits go by names such as burs, cutters, carvers, stones, and discs.

Bits are manufactured from a variety of materials and are available in many shapes, head sizes, and shank sizes. The sheer volume of bits available can be overwhelming. By breaking down the categories and taking a look at the performance of the different types of bits, you can choose the best bit for the job.

Shank Diameter

The shank is the backbone of the bit. One end of the shank is inserted in the rotary power carver. The head of the bit is formed around the opposite end of the shank. The most common shank diameters are ¼”, 1/8″, 3/32″, and 1/16″. Flexible shaft machines accept any of these diameters when equipped with the appropriate collet. Micro motors typically accept 1/8″- and 3/32″-diameter shanks, although, optional collets can be purchased for alternate size shanks. Air turbine machines use only friction bits with a 1/16″-diameter shank. Generally, the larger the size of the bit’s head, the larger the diameter of the shank. Use the largest bit you comfortably can for the area you are carving. When inserting the bit into your rotary power carver, make sure the shank is as far into the tool as it will go.

Head Shape and Size

Bits are grouped into a few general shapes. The shape of the bit’s head determines the contour of the cut. The larger the head, the more wood it will remove. Larger bits are generally used for roughing out a piece and smaller bits are used to add details.

Many of the shapes have very specific purposes, but we tend to use the ball, cylinder, flame, and pear-shaped bits the most.

	Bull nose/ball nose: Combines a ball with a cylinder Use to make concave cuts and hollow out areas using the top Use the side to cut flat areas and round edges Creates a cut similar to a U-gouge with the top and a knife cut with the side		Cylinder: Use to cut flat areas, round edges, and make stop cuts and V-cuts Creates a cut similar to a knife or straight chisel Hold the tool at an angle and use the top corner to make V-cuts Smooth-end or safe-end bits are the most useful		Flame: Use to make concave cuts and V-cuts, and to recess areas Creates a cut similar to a U-gouge when using its side and a V-tool when using the tip
	Large taper: Use to round edges, make concave cuts, and access hard-to-reach areas		Small Taper: Use to access hard-to-reach and angled areas Create feather barbules and hair		Oval: Use to round edges, create lumps and bumps, and make concave cuts
	Ball: Use to create concave cuts and to hollow out areas Creates a cut similar to a U-gouge		Inverted Cone: Use to make V-cuts for feather barbules and hair		Disc: Use to undercut feathers and make channel cuts Cut off thin pieces of unwanted wood
			Pear: Use to round edges and create lumps and bumps when bird carving

Grits and Materials

Bits are made from a variety of materials. These materials vary greatly in cost, cutting speed, durability, and the smoothness of the surface they leave behind. The most coarse and longlasting bits feature aggressive carbide points bonded to a metal shaft. These bits remove wood fast, but leave a rough surface. The finest cutting bits are man-made stones which produce a smooth surface. Coarse bits work best at slower rpm and finer bits work best at higher rpm.

Carbide-point Bits Brand names: Typhoon, Saburr Tooth, Kutzall Average price per bit: $15 to $20 Shank diameters:¼”, 1/8″, 3/32″ Durability:High: we have several bits we have used for more than ten years without a noticeable change in their ability to remove wood Most aggressive bits available Used for rapid stock removal when roughing out both hard and soft wood Produce a relatively rough surface Typhoon, Saburr Tooth, and Kutzall Extreme make cleaner cuts, collect less debris, and are easier to clean because the points are structurally aligned Kutzall bits cut fast, but leave a rougher surface and can be difficult to clean Cut wood, acrylic, plaster, and fiberglass	Carbide Cutters Brand names: Various Average price per bit: $12 to $20 Shank diameters: ¼”, 1/8″, 3/32″, 1/16″ Durability: High: long-lasting bits are nearly as durable as carbide-point bits Produce a relatively smooth surface on woods Available in fluted and cross-cut styles Large bits with ¼”-diameter shafts useful for roughing out carvings Smaller bits can be used to add detail to carvings Cut wood, acrylic, plaster, and fiberglass
Carbide-grit Bits Brand names: Dura-Grit Average price per bit: $15 Shank diameters: 1/8″ Durability: High: tough carbide grit stays sharp and won’t tear loose, but wears out faster than carbide cutters and carbide-point bits Available in several grits Available in most shapes including cutting wheels Cut wood, laminates, fiberglass, gourds, and ceramics	Mini Saw & Carving Drills Brand names: Various Average price per bit: $10 Shank diameters: 1/8″, 3/32″ Durability: High: Mini saw drills are made from high-speed steel coated with titanium nitride; carving drills are made from high-tempered steel. Both types of drills have great heat resistance and life Used to drill holes and carve out from the holes on pierced turnings and relief carvings Difficult to control on an in-the-round carving Cut wood up to ¾” thick. Come in a variety of sizes
High-speed Steel Bits Brand names: Various Average price per bit: $11 Shank diameters: 1/8″, 3/32″ Durability: Medium: longlasting, but not as durable as carbide bits Available in more shapes than carbide bits Useful for cutting grooves and countersinking Less expensive, but less durable than carbide, diamond, or ruby bits Cut wood, bone, antler, plastic, and soft metals	Stump Cutters Brand names: Various Average price per bit: $9 to $11 Shank diameters: 3/32″ Durability: Medium: vanadium steel cutters last longer than high-speed steel bits, but not as long as diamond or ruby bits Serrated edges remove wood quickly, but leave a smooth surface Cut most woods, bits wear out faster when carving hard dense woods
Diamond Bits Brand names: Various Average price per bit: Plated: $7 to $10, Sintered: $20 to $25 Shank diameters: ¼”, 1/8″, 3/32″, 1/16″ Durability: High: sintered diamond bits are almost as durable as carbide bits; plated diamond bits are less durable than sintered diamond bits Plated diamond bits feature a single layer of diamond particles embedded in the shaped metal head Sintered diamond bits feature diamond particles bonded with powdered bronze matrix, which are then bonded to the metal head Sintered diamond bits can be sharpened and reshaped slightly with a diamond dressing stone Plated diamond bits cannot be reshaped Used to texture and carve fine details Available in several grits Available in more shapes than any other bit Used for final shaping, texturing, and detailing Cut wood, hardened steel, glass, ceramic, bone, antler, stone, and precious metals	Ruby Bits Brand names: Various Average price per bit: $9 Shank diameters: 1/8″, 3/32″ Durability: Medium: last longer than stones, but are less durable than diamond bits Particles of ruby bonded to a metal frame Remove wood quickly, but leave a smooth finish Available in fine, medium, and coarse grits Cut steel, ceramic, wood, soft and precious metals, bone, and antler
V Stones Brand names: Foredom Average price per bit: $3 to $5 Shank diameters: 1/8″, 3/32″ Durability: Medium: last longer than ordinary aluminum-oxide stones, but less than ruby bits Made from a vitrified self-sharpening aluminum-oxide grain Cool-running and long-lasting abrasive stones Cut wood, metals, acrylic, glass, and marble	CeramCut Blue Stones Brand names: Foredom Average price per bit: $2 to $3 Shank diameters: 1/8″, 3/32″ Durability: Medium: last longer than other stones, but less than ruby bits Made from ceramic and aluminum-oxide for strength and cutting speed Run cooler than other stones, which makes them less likely to burn wood Leave a smooth finish Cut wood, mild steel, steel alloys, and ferrous metals
Aluminum-oxide Stones Brand names: Various Average price per bit: $1.50 to $2.50 Shank diameters: 1/8″, 3/32″ Durability: Low: least durable bit Available in various grits Red (coarse, 80 to 150 grit) and white (fine, 400 grit) are mostly used for wood Red used for fast wood removal White used for fine texturing, such as bird feathers or mammal fur Stones can be reshaped and sharpened easily to extend their life. Cut wood, mild steel, and soft metals	Silicon-carbide Stones Brand names: Various Average price per bit: $2 to $3 Shank diameters: 1/8″, 3/32″ Durability: Low: last longer than aluminum-oxide stones, but are less durable than CeramCut Blue Stones Silicon-carbide mixture bonded to a stainless steel head and shank More aggressive than white stones but less aggressive than red stones Used to create lumps and bumps on bird carvings, with a limited ability to create feathers and hair Cut wood, aluminum, brass, glass, and gemstones
Ceramic Texturing Rods Brand names: Various Average price per bit: $22 Shank diameters: 1/8″, 3/32″ Durability: Medium: last longer than white stones, but are less durable than diamond bits Used to create feather barbules, fur, or hair Available in three grits: 300, 800, and 1200 Entire 2″-long rod can be dressed or shaped for texturing, giving the rods longer life Cut them in half and dress the four ends with different shapes and sizes Our top choice for creating fine detail for feathers and hair	Sanding Bands & Discs Brand names: Dremel, Foredom, 3M Cubitron Average price per bit: drum: $3, sanding bands: $0.50 to $0.75 Shank diameters: ¼”, 1/8″, 3/32″ Durability: Medium to low: ordinary aluminum-oxide sanding bands last as long as ordinary sandpaper, 3M Cubitron ceramic aluminum-oxide bands last at least twice as long Require a reusable mandrel or rubber drum Available in many grits Drums available in many sizes Cartridge and tapered rolls available for split mandrels in various sizes and grits
Cushioned Sanding Drums Brand names: Various Average price per bit: $16 to $17 Shank diameters: ¼”, 1/8″ Durability: Low: the drums are very durable, the sandpaper cover lasts as long as ordinary sandpaper Mandrel with soft rubber backing and a slot for the sandpaper to be wrapped around the rubber backing Work best with cloth-backed sandpaper Includes a metal template which allows you to cut any grit of sandpaper to size One of our most-used tools	Defuzzing Pads & Radial Bristle Brushes Brand names: 3M, Scotchbrite Average price per bit: $0.80 per 6″ x 9″ sheet: $1.50 per bristle brush Shank diameters: 1/8″, 3/32″ Durability: Low: synthetic steel wool pads and synthetic or horse hair bristles wear out quickly Pads require a mandrel, clamp one or two squares on the mandrel Pads used to remove fuzz before texture is carved Brushes used to remove wood fuzz and clean area between barbules and hair before painting Create your own pads by cutting 1½” to 2″ squares of synthetic steel wool
Radial Bristle Discs Brand names: 3M, Scotchbrite Average price per bit: $1.25 per individual disc Shank diameters: 1/8″, 3/32″ Durability: Medium: last as long as 3M ceramic aluminum-oxide sandpaper Require a mandrel, usually stack in groups of three to six on the mandrel 3M Cubitron ceramic and aluminum-oxide particles are embedded in the bristles Disc diameters range from ¼” to 3″ Disc grits range from 80 grit to 1 micron (14,000 grit) Use slower speeds for control, faster speeds for aggressive wood removal Useful for defuzzing Cut wood, precious and soft metals, and ceramic

Maintenance

Over time, you will accumulate a number of bits to meet your carving needs. It makes sense to keep the bits sharp and in good condition in order to protect your investment. We recommend the following tips to prolong the life of your bits:

• Store your bits in a holder of some sort to prevent them from banging into each other.
• Don’t apply so much pressure that you burn your bits.
• Clean your carbide-point bits with a brass brush.
• Remove stubborn sawdust with oven cleaner.
• Use a wet white whetstick to clean diamond bits.
• Use a neoprene rubber bar to remove dust from ruby bits, stones, sanding discs, sanding drums, and cushioned sanding drums.
• Reshape and clean stones with a diamond hone or dressing stone.

Every carver has his or her own favorite bits. Experiment with bits of different sizes and materials to get a good feel for their capabilities. When selecting a bit for a specific purpose, power carver Jack Kochan asks himself the following questions to help determine which bit to choose:

• How fast do I want to remove wood?
• How much wood do I want to remove?
• How smooth do I want the wood to be when I finish this section?
• What size bit is best suited for the area I want to carve?

Recommended Starter Set We recommend the following bits as an initial investment:
A defuzzing pad and soft bristle brush	Small carbide point bits, from left: fine cylinder, coarse flame, coarse ball, fine ball	Two cushioned sanding drums (large and small) with assorted grits of sandpaper
Regular-grit diamond or ruby bits from left: pear, safe-end tapered, medium flame, small flame, small tapered	Texturing bits from left: small taper green stone, small ball green stone, small tapered stone with a rounded tip, blue ceramic rod
In addition to the bits above, choose carbide-point bits with ¼”-diameter shafts for roughing out.
Smaller carvings require smaller and fewer carbide-point bits, from left: fine cylinder sleeve, coarse cylinder   For large carvings, use large carbide-point bits, from left: fine cylinder sleeve, fine cylinder, fine ball, coarse ball

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About the Authors

Chuck Solomon (left) and Dave Hamilton are avid carvers and instructors. They have co-authored The Art of Stylized Wood Carving, Carving Hummingbirds, and Carving North American Hummingbirds, all available at www.foxchapelpublishing.com.

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