To protect my workbench, I cover it with freezer paper. Just cut the paper to fit and use blue painter’s tape to secure it in place with the matte side of the paper down. The shiny plastic backing on the paper makes it fairly durable, and it keeps finishes and glue off my workbench.

Keep the small scraps you cut off when fitting the paper to your bench. I use these scraps, shiny side up, as disposable paint palettes. Mix the paints on it, and just roll it up and throw it away when you’re finished painting. Once your workbench is covered, try carving a pear-shaped Santa Claus for your next project!

The post Easy Cleanup appeared first on Woodcarving Illustrated.

I’ve tried gloves and padding for my hands, but my palms still hurt after using full size gouges. So, I decided to add ribbed rubber chair tips to my gouge handles, and not only has this helped ease the pain, it has also reduced my carpal tunnel pain.

Measure the end of your gouge handle; I used a circle drafting template, but you could also use calipers. The tips should fit tightly. The tips usually cost around a $1 each and are available in most hardware stores, but I found the largest selection at youngs-inc.com. Choose a tip with a flat bottom, because a rounded bottom will continue to focus the pressure into the center of your palm.

The tips spread out the pressure as I carve, and, as a bonus, the ribs give you another gripping surface. Once you have added the cushioned tips to your handles, test them out on this folk-art bird project.

Get the Latest Issue! [button link=”https://foxchapelpublishing.com/collections/newest-releases/products/woodcarving-illustrated-issue-111-summer-2025″ bg_color=”#ff0000″]Purchase the Latest Issue[/button] For more articles like this, subscribe to Woodcarving Illustrated magazine. [button link=”https://www.foxchapelpublishing.com/wood-carving-illustrated-subscription.html” bg_color=”#ff0000″]Magazine Subscription[/button] Plus! Get digital mini magazines in your e-mail between printed issues.   [button link=”https://woodcarving.zeeframes.com/enews/” bg_color=”#ff0000″]Subscribe to Strop Talk[/button]

The post Cushioning Gouge Handles appeared first on Woodcarving Illustrated.

By Lora S. Irish

As you work with any woodburning tool, carbon deposits will build up on the tip. The hotter the temperature, the quicker the deposits develop. This black buildup can be transferred to your work, causing dark gray or black streaks that cannot be removed. Heavy carbon deposits can also affect the temperature of the tool tip, causing the tip to cool below its normal heat setting. Unevenly burned lines that vary sharply in color or width are most often caused by a dirty tip.

Check your tool tip often and clean it whenever this buildup becomes noticeable. When the tool tip starts to take on a chocolate-brown tone, unplug the tool, and allow it to cool for about 10 minutes. Then, use one of the following three methods to clean your tool tip. Do not attempt to clean hot tips, whether solid brass or wire, because this can damage the metal and the cleaning surface. Once you have cleaned your woodburning tips, get to burning with this trio of bird ornaments!

Honing Strop Using a honing strop and aluminum-oxide honing compound is the second way to clean tool tips, and it works for both one-temperature and variable-temperature tips. Place a small amount of the compound on the strop, and then pull the tool tip across the strop’s surface to clear the tip of carbon. This is my favorite cleaning method because it does the least amount of damage to tool tips while restoring them to the bright finish that creates clean burned strokes.

Use a honing board or leather honing strop with an aluminum-oxide compound to clean variable-temperature wire tips and the solid brass tips of the one-temperature tool.

Get the Latest Issue! [button link=”https://foxchapelpublishing.com/products/woodcarving-illustrated-issue-109-winter-2024?_pos=1&_psq=109&_ss=e&_v=1.0″ bg_color=”#ff0000″]Purchase the Issue[/button] For more articles like this, subscribe to Woodcarving Illustrated magazine. [button link=”https://www.foxchapelpublishing.com/wood-carving-illustrated-subscription.html” bg_color=”#ff0000″]Magazine Subscription[/button] Plus! Get digital mini magazines in your e-mail between printed issues.   [button link=”https://woodcarving.zeeframes.com/enews/” bg_color=”#ff0000″]Subscribe to Strop Talk[/button]

The post Keeping It Clean appeared first on Woodcarving Illustrated.

By Laverne “Sid” Sidler

Using a carving arm has real advantages. You will reduce the risk of cutting yourself; have both hands free to control the tool, resulting in higher-quality results; be able to position the work to make difficult areas more accessible; and simply be more comfortable while carving. Plus, a person who only has the use of one hand can still carve by using a carving arm.

To use the carving arm effectively, you need to know how to attach your blanks to it. The goal is to make the work piece easy to position and to provide the best access for carving tools. You should be able to adjust the carving arm up and down and rotate the blank on the carving arm. Once you feel comfortable using your carver’s arm, attach your next blank to it and carve yourself a Happy Santa caricature. 

Mounting a Carving Directly To attach a large carving to the arm, use a carver’s screw. Drill a pilot hole into the bottom of the blank and thread the carver’s screw into the hole. Carver’s screws are available from most carving supply stores. For small carvings, you can use a common hanger bolt in lieu of a carver’s screw. Hanger bolts, which have a machine-thread bolt on one end and a lag screw on the other end, are often sold in the plumbing area of hardware stores. I suggest a 5/16″-dia. by 4″-long (8mm by 102mm) hanger bolt. To attach the hanger bolt to the blank, drill a 3/16″ (5mm)-dia. pilot hole in the bottom of the carving, and thread the lag part of the bolt into the hole. The hanger bolt should protrude at least 2-3/8″ (60mm) so you can attach the piece to the carving arm.

Twist a carver’s screw or hanger bolt into the bottom of the carving.

Using a Mounting Block or Plug It can be difficult to use a carver’s screw with some projects, such as relief carvings or figures without bases. To mount carvings like this, I use a carriage bolt attached to a temporary mounting block. To mount a relief carving, choose a piece of 3/4″ (19mm)-thick wood that is large enough to insert at least four wood screws into the relief carving. Position the screws in areas that will not protrude into the finished carving. Drill and countersink the holes for the screws in the bottom of the mounting block. Drill and counter-bore the hole for the carriage bolt in the center of the top of the mounting block. Drive the carriage bolt through the hole and then screw the mounting block to the relief carving. For an in-the-round carving that doesn’t have a base, such as a human or animal figure, choose a 3/4″ (19mm)-thick piece of wood big enough for the figure to stand on. Determine where the feet will be located and drill and countersink holes positioned so the screws will go into the feet and legs. Drill a hole for the carriage bolt in the center of the mounting block. To ensure the carriage bolt sits below the surface of the mounting block, counter-bore a shallow hole the same size as the head of the carriage bolt in the top of the mounting block and drive the carriage bolt down through the hole. Use wood screws to attach the carving to the mounting block. For hollow items, like cane heads, make a plug that fits into the blank. Drill a pilot hole in the plug and insert the lag end of a hanger bolt into the hole. Use wood screws to attach the plug to the blank. When the carving is finished, back out the wood screws to free the carving from the plug.

Use a mounting block to attach a relief carving to a carving arm. Use a mounting block for an in-the-round carving that does not have  a base. When you can’t drill into the blank, create a plug.

Choosing a Handle Once you have attached a carver’s screw or bolt to the blank or mounting block, you can use either a commercial or a shop-made handle to mount the blank to the carving arm. To use a commercial handle, place a 5/16″ (8mm)-dia. fender washer onto the carver’s screw or bolt and then add a 5/16″-16 five-star knob. To make a handle, sketch the shape as pictured. Drill a 1/2″ (13mm)- dia. by 5/8″ (16mm) deep hole in the inner curve and then drill a 5/16″ (8mm) hole all the way through. Cut around the perimeter of the handle. Install a 5/16″-16 threaded insert into the larger hole. Thread a fender washer onto the carver’s screw or bolt and loosely twist on your shop-made handle.

Buy a handle or make your own.

Using a Carving Arm Keep the handle loose enough that you can slide the bolt through the slot in the carving arm. Make sure the fender washer is against the handle and tighten until the carving is held securely. To rotate the carving as you work, simply loosen the handle or knob. Be sure to re-tighten the handle before working again.

Use a handle to attach the mounting block to the carving arm.

Get the Winter 2023 Issue [button link=”https://foxchapelpublishing.com/products/woodcarving-illustrated-issue-105-winter-2023″ bg_color=”#ff0000″]Purchase the Issue[/button] For more articles like this, subscribe to Woodcarving Illustrated magazine. [button link=”https://www.foxchapelpublishing.com/wood-carving-illustrated-subscription.html” bg_color=”#ff0000″]Magazine Subscription[/button] Plus! Get digital mini magazines in your e-mail between printed issues. [button link=”https://woodcarving.zeeframes.com/enews/” bg_color=”#ff0000″]Subscribe to Strop Talk[/button]

The post Using a Carver’s Arm appeared first on Woodcarving Illustrated.

By Ralph Beam

Illustrations by Paul Modlin 

I wanted to carve outside in nice weather but needed a way to secure the blanks in a unit light enough to move from the yard to the garage. I read an article about shop-made holding devices by Roger Schroeder in Woodcarving Illustrated Summer 2006 (Issue 35) that described a carver’s frame made by John and Nancy Burke that fit my needs. The Burkes made their frame from steel and large pieces of wood that made it too heavy to move around. I used the basic concept of the Burke frame to make a smaller one out of lighter construction-grade wood that can be secured to the ground with tent stakes.

This carver’s frame offers several options for securing work for in-the-round or relief carving. It has an added shoulder vise screw device to secure pieces vertically. The screw can also be flipped around to secure pieces to the bench. Use hanger bolts with washers and wing nuts or carver’s screws through the table, or attach a board to the vertical board for an in-the-round piece. This lets you rotate the piece to change your carving angle. Use clamps to hold flat relief-carving blanks to the table. Like any carving bench, you can add holes for bench dogs and clamps to secure work or to hold tools. You can clamp walking sticks or longer pieces of wood directly to the vertical board. After creating your carver’s frame, try carving a rustic wooden cup or a dozen!

Get the Summer 2023 Issue [button link=”hhttps://www.foxchapelpublishing.com/magazines/woodcarving-illustrated-issue-103-summer-2023-wci103.html” bg_color=”#ff0000″]Purchase the Issue[/button] For more articles like this, subscribe to Woodcarving Illustrated magazine. [button link=”https://www.foxchapelpublishing.com/wood-carving-illustrated-subscription.html” bg_color=”#ff0000″]Magazine Subscription[/button] Plus! Get digital mini magazines in your e-mail between printed issues. [button link=”https://woodcarving.zeeframes.com/enews/” bg_color=”#ff0000″]Subscribe to Strop Talk[/button]

The post Building a Carver’s Frame appeared first on Woodcarving Illustrated.

By Steve Russell

Organize your paint collection with a rack made to suit your needs. This multilayered design with a clear front gets paint bottles up off the bench, moves them closer to eye level, and doesn’t take up much space. You can make it with scrap plywood and clear acrylic. If one rack isn’t big enough, make it larger or make a second rack. I made mine to allow for storage underneath, but you could make it flush on the bottom for a shorter rack. After your rack is built and your paints are organized, get to work on your next spring project like this realistic-looking bunny.

Get the Spring 2023 Issue [button link=”https://www.foxchapelpublishing.com/magazines/woodcarving-illustrated-issue-102-spring-2023.html” bg_color=”#ff0000″]Purchase the Issue[/button] For more articles like this, subscribe to Woodcarving Illustrated magazine. [button link=”https://www.foxchapelpublishing.com/wood-carving-illustrated-subscription.html” bg_color=”#ff0000″]Magazine Subscription[/button] Plus! Get digital mini magazines in your e-mail between printed issues. [button link=”https://woodcarving.zeeframes.com/enews/” bg_color=”#ff0000″]Subscribe to Strop Talk[/button]

The post Custom Paint Rack appeared first on Woodcarving Illustrated.

These entry-level models get you burning without breaking the bank

By Bob Duncan

There are a few essential tools that you need before you begin woodburning. For first timers, we recommend starting with a cheaper model before investing in the more serious ones. If you decide that you would like to explore this hobby more, it’s important to understand the different types available. If possible, try several units to see which you prefer.

Single Temperature vs. Variable Temperature

While many inexpensive soldering-iron style burners are available, the tip size and shape and single temperature setting make them more difficult to use. I suggest that most beginnings choose a variable-temperature burner because they are easier to control and provide a greater selection of tip shapes.

A Word on Tips

Most manufacturers design burning pens and tips specifically for their units. Each manufacturer also makes a few tip shapes that are different from other manufacturers. The good news is that most manufacturers have conversion kits that allow you to use different manufacturers’ pens with their burner units.

Pens come in two styles: fixed tip and interchangeable tip. In the fixed tip style, each pen comes with a different tip, so you change pens to change tips. With the other style, you have one pen and change just the tip. Some artists like the versatility of the interchangeable tips, which allow you to get a variety of tips for a small investment. But other pyrographers feel the connectors that allow you to change the tips are difficult to use, or that they are unreliable and bleed off power. If possible, try both styles of pen to see which you prefer.

	Burnmaster Hawk The Hawk comes with the cords and adapters to use any pen via the jack on the front of the unit, but does not come with a pen. The Burnmaster pen (available separately) accepts any Burnmaster tip and will accommodate replaceable tips from Detail Master, Colwood, or Razertip. The Burnmaster pen can be used with any burner control unit. Suggested retail: $209 800-284-6229; WoodCarversSupply.com
	Colwood Cub The least expensive hot-wire variable-temperature woodburner, this compact unit accommodates any Colwood pen (sold separately). While it lacks a pen holder, it includes a cable clamp so you can hang the unit over the work area. The pen cord attaches internally. The on/off switch is integrated into the temperature-control dial. Suggested retail: $69 (Pens and tips sold separately.)  732-938-5556; Woodburning.com
	Colwood Detailer The first unit Colwood created is still the company’s biggest seller. It features a temperature-control dial and lighted on/off switch. The pen cord attaches to the back of the control unit with two screws and can be replaced. The unit accommodates any Colwood pen (sold separately), and includes a snap-in pen holder on the top. Suggested retail: $82 (Burner control unit and cord, tips and handpieces sold separately.) 732-938-5556; Woodburning.com
	Optima 1 Single The Optima 1 comes with an extremely flexible pen cord for use with their standard fixed-tip pen. A heavy-duty cord is available for use with heavy-duty pens and tips. The jack for the pen cord is on the front of the unit, and it has a snap-in pen holder that can be attached anywhere. Your choice of fixed-tip pen is included. Suggested retail: $107  320-594-2811; CarverTools.com
	Razertip SK The SK is safety certified in both the United States and Canada, and features a pen cord jack in the front. The unit can handle all of Razertip’s standard and heavy-duty pens, and has a snap-in pen holder on the side. Comes with a cord and pen. Suggested retail: $165 306-931-0889; Razertip.com
	Walnut Hollow Creative Versa-Tool This inexpensive variable-temperature woodburner is made in the soldering-iron style, but has a rheostat on the cord to control the temperature. People with small hands may find the thick unit difficult to hold and control. Comes with 11 different screw-on tips. Suggested retail: $35 1-800-395-5995; WalnutHollow.com

Get the 2020 Issue [button link=”https://www.foxchapelpublishing.com/woodcarving-illustrated-issue-92-fall-2020.html” bg_color=”#ff0000″]Purchase the Issue[/button] For more articles like this, subscribe to Woodcarving Illustrated magazine. [button link=”https://www.foxchapelpublishing.com/wood-carving-illustrated-subscription.html” bg_color=”#ff0000″]Magazine Subscription[/button] Plus! Get digital mini magazines in your e-mail between printed issues. [button link=”https://woodcarving.zeeframes.com/enews/” bg_color=”#ff0000″]Subscribe to Strop Talk[/button]

The post Beginner’s Woodburner Shopping Guide appeared first on Woodcarving Illustrated.

By Bill Kinnear

Throughout my woodworking years, I have been continually frustrated with the sanding accessories that are available, so I set out to develop a cheap system that would work under different applications. The sanders I designed are inexpensive and easy to make. You can make a bunch at one time in different sizes and grits or customize them to fit your current project. With a small, fine-grit screw sander, you can carve and sand the finest details.

I make sanders from metal rods, bolts, and screws. The technique is similar for all of them, so I’ll demonstrate with a piece of metal rod and add a cushion. The cushion allows you to get a smooth finish without sanding away fine details. Without the cushion, you can use the sander to carve or sand sharp edges.

1: Prepare the rod. Cut a 1/4″ (6mm)-diameter rod to size and clamp it in a vise. Cut a 1 1/2″ (38mm)-long slot down the center of the rod with a hacksaw or rotary tool with a cutoff wheel. Clamp the rod in the rotary tool handpiece and lock the shaft.	2: Attach the rag to the rod. Use the template to cut the sandpaper and rag to shape. Place the tab of the rag into the slot in the rod so 1/8″ to 1/4″ (3mm to 6mm) protrudes past the end of the rod. Wind the rag snugly around the rod while keeping the end even. Stop when you have approximately 2″ (51mm) of rag left.
3: Attach the sandpaper. Position the sandpaper, grit down, so it overlaps the unwrapped piece of cloth. Wind the sandpaper with the cloth around the rod tightly, keeping the end straight as you wrap.	4: Lock the sandpaper in place. When you have wound all of the sandpaper onto the rod, hold it in place with your right thumb as you wind thread onto the bottom of the sandpaper approximately a dozen times. I carefully use the rotation of the tool, but you can do it by hand. Dab the thread with glue to hold it in place.

CLICK HERE to download the Templates.

Changing the Sandpaper

When the sandpaper gets beat up, cut the thread and undo the sandpaper from the cloth. Then, reverse the sandpaper, recut the ends, wrap it back up, add new thread and glue, and continue sanding. When the sandpaper is worn out on both sides, cut the thread, remove the sandpaper, and replace it with a new piece. Do not throw the worn piece away, because there will be enough perfectly good sandpaper left in the center portion to make one or more of the small sanders that will fit onto a deck screw shaft.

About the Cushion

I have experimented with various materials to act as a cushion under the sandpaper and found that ordinary rags work just as well as anything else. The more material you wrap onto the rod before you put the sandpaper on, the softer the sander will be. Craft stores sell foam sheets that also work; experiment with different materials to find the hardness that will suit your project.

Making a Hard Sander

Use the hard sander template to cut the sandpaper. Insert the tab of sandpaper into the slot, wrap the sandpaper around the rod, and lock it in place with glued thread.

Materials & Tools

Materials

 • Metal rod, 1/4″ (6mm) dia.:  3 3/4″ (95mm) long

• Shop rag, 2″ wide and up to 12″ long (51mm x 305mm)

• Flexible cloth-backed sandpaper (grit of choice): 2″ x 6″  (51mm x 152mm)

• Glue

• Thread: 6′ (1524mm) long

Tools

• Hacksaw or rotary tool with cutoff wheel

• Rotary tool handpiece

About the Author

Bill Keanner is a self-taught woodcarver who has spent more than 30 years expanding and improving his carving talents in the Crowsnest Pass in southern Alberta, Canada. The few times he has traveled to the city to compete in carving competitions, Bill has been rewarded with coveted blue ribbons for bird and cane carvings.

Want more power carving?

Check out the Power Carving Manual, Updated and Expanded Second Edition

Step-by-step projects and expert advice from today’s top power carvers will take your carving to the next level with the speed and control of power tools.

Available for $19.99 plus S&H from Fox Chapel Publishing, 1970 Broad St., East Petersburg, PA 17520, 800-457-9112, FoxChapelPublishing.com. 

The post Shop Made Sanding Drums appeared first on Woodcarving Illustrated.

by Roger Schroeder

There are probably as many clamping methods as there are carvers because every carver holds his or her own carving differently. But most have very similar roots—and are based on a few simple ideas.

Holding

Unless you are planning to hold your carving in one hand and carve with the other, you will need some way to stabilize your project.  Holding devices are essential if you plan to use a mallet and chisel or if the piece is too small or delicate to hold easily. Fortunately, there are many commercially available options to secure your work for carving.

Carver’s Vise

A carver’s vise is a great investment for any carver. Before purchasing one, check whether it is adjustable in all three axes. That means you can position the project side to side as well as up and down and from front to back. Also investigate the vise’s gripping power and slippage. There must be enough surface on the mounting plate, or between the jaws, to accommodate the carving so that it doesn’t move when worked on, especially if a mallet is used.

Carver’s Arm

Long before manufactured holding and clamping fixtures came into being, the carver’s arm dominated. Designed like the human arm—hence, the name—to bend at a hinge point, the wood components provide the up-and-down positioning. To allow the project to be rotated from side to side, a separate carver’s screw is used at the end of the arm.  A carver’s arm is not difficult to make—I recommend maple—but reasonably priced arms can be purchased through catalogs.

Alligator Clips

Alligator clips have probably been around since Doctor Frankenstein hooked up his monster for a cosmic jolt. When mounted on a bar attached to a base, they become indispensable for holding delicate objects. If you are a carver who needs a third or even fourth hand, grab the alligator clips. I’ve seen clothespin-looking gadgets with two alligator clips attached, and I’ve come across devices with three clips.  Just make sure the clip or clip base is securely held to keep it from toppling over.

Machinist’s Vise

I suspect that several generations of carvers have used a machinist’s vise to hold a project. To protect the wood and the tools from the jaws, strips of a soft wood have to be attached. If a fancy carver’s vise is not in the budget, and there’s that machinist’s vise inherited from dad, try out a new accessory called Soff Jaws. Cushioned pads ³/8” thick cover magnetic strips that keep the pads in place. They really work.

Clamping to Join

Clamps are generally used to join two pieces of wood together. Carvers will often laminate wood for a large carving, but there are times when irregularly shaped pieces need to be added to compensate for an area that was mistakenly removed or to fill in a bad spot.

Rubber Bands

Irregularly shaped objects are sometimes impossible to clamp with anything but a piece of elastic rubber.  I usually have to hunt around in a pile of rubber bands to find one that offers just the right amount of stretch. When more “squeeze” is required, I apply two rubber bands or double up a single one.

Web Clamp

Another tool that serves a purpose similar to the rubber band is the web clamp. Wrap a length of nylon webbing around a project in need of gluing, and pull the webbing taut with a ratchet mechanism—a surprising amount of pressure can be exerted.  An advantage of the web clamp is that one wrap offers much more clamping area than a single rubber band.

Clamping to Hold & Join

There are many devices developed specifically for holding your work in progress or for joining wood. But some clamps, both old standbys and  newcomers, are better designed for getting a good grip on the work. And a  few are capable of both holding and joining.

C, Quick-Change, Spring, and Toggle Clamps

When carving a small relief panel, either a pair of C, spring, quick-change or toggle clamps will hold the wood to my workbench.

C clamps are old standbys to many carvers, and I have about a dozen in my shop, with openings that range from about 1″ to 12″.

But there’s a lot to be said about quick-change clamps, since C clamps require a lot of effort and time to open and close. Slide the jaws of a quick-change clamp together and simply squeeze the pistol grip to tighten them; to release the pressure, pull a trigger. I’m particularly impressed with two other features. One is the soft jaws that protect a delicate project or finish. The other is the ability to tighten or release a clamp with a single hand in a matter of seconds.

The one downside to the tool is slippage and clamping pressure. Using a mallet sets up vibrations that tend to weaken the grip.  And don’t expect to glue up panels or other laminated projects when using polyvinyl acetate glues. Quick-change clamps do not provide the needed pressure for a good bond.

Another tool that opens and closes quickly is the spring clamp. With protective polyvinyl handles and tips, they comes in mini-sizes, offering a clamping force of only a few pounds. But beefier cousins with an opening of an impressive 4″ are available that will exert as much as 35 pounds of force.

Toggle clamps combine a rubber-tipped hold-down with a lever handle. Push the handle down or pull it up, and the hold-down locks in place. The problem with these tools, and the ones described above, is that they get in the way of the project. Consider using a long backing board that the project can be screwed to. The clamps grip the board and stay well out of the way.

Bar and Pipe Clamps

A rectangular section of steel, the bar clamp has a fixed head with an adjustable screw and an adjustable tail slide. These devices were the only game in town for generations until they fell into disfavor for several reasons: Set lengths—most commonly 4 and 6-footers—had to be purchased; the clamps were expensive; and there was the advent of the pipe clamp.

Also consisting of head and tail pieces, the pipe clamp fits any available length of ³/4“-diameter pipe threaded on one end. Screw the head in place; slide the tail, which has a disc clutch to keep it from moving, onto the pipe; and the clamp is ready.

Carvers doing small figures use pipe and bar clamps as holding fixtures. To use, simply grip the project between the jaws, and tighten the clamp down in a vise. Another take on the vise would be to attach a flange to the bottom of the pipe. Bolt the flange to your workbench, and you’re on your way.

Watch your tools when using a metal clamp to hold your work—one false move will give you a nicked blade!

The new “fast action” design brings bar clamps up to date. A typical fast-action bar clamp consists of one fixed jaw and one sliding jaw with a ball-joined shoe at the end of a handle and screw.  After the two jaws close on a project, the handle is turned, which locks the moveable jaw in place.

At my favorite home improvement store I find fast-action bar clamps with openings as little as 4″ and as much as 50″. But more important than length is the depth of the throat. C clamps, by comparison, rarely have a “reach” of more than a few inches. Typical medium-duty fast-action clamps, however, have a reach of 7″ with openings ranging from 18″ to 48″. For holding wide panels to my workbench or glue-joining wide blocks of wood, I gravitate to short but deep-throated bar clamps.

There’s a clamp for every project, with many available at your favorite home improvement center or hardware store. Most won’t tax your budget. So don’t be afraid to get a grip on a few good tools that will last a lifetime. They’re worth the investment.

About the Author

Roger Schroeder, of Amityville, N.Y., is a retired teacher, accomplished author, and the founding editor of Woodcarving Illustrated.

This article first appeared in Woodcarving Illustrated Spring 2006 (Issue 34).

Discuss this material on the Woodcarving Illustrated forums.

The post All About Clamps & Vises appeared first on Woodcarving Illustrated.

by Charles Brown

This article was first published in issue 34 of Woodcarving Illustrated.

The dimensions of the lapboard depend on a couple factors; I made mine to fit comfortably in my easy chair. Your physique and available materials also play a part in your dimensions.

Step 1: Cut out your keystone pieces. Set your table saw or miter saw to cut at a 5° angle. Make your first cut. Flip your piece end over end. Mark your piece so the long dimension will be 1³⁄4” and make another cut. Continue cutting until you have 16 keystone pieces. I used several pieces of scrap; that way it keeps your hands away from the saw blade. Leave the two end pieces a little longer.

Step 2: Glue up the semi-circle rail. Place these keystone pieces side-by-side. Flip them back and forth until they form the semi-circle. The two long pieces will be your end pieces. Glue and clamp the pieces together, starting on one side. Work your way over to the other side.

Allow the glue to dry, and sand it smooth.

Step 3: Assemble the lapboard bottom. Edge-glue the two pieces together. Trace the semi-circle rail onto the bottom, and mark the end pieces of the rail. Cut out this semi-circle with a scroll saw, bandsaw, or jigsaw and trim the ends of the rail to fit. Sand the cutout to fit the rail.

Step 4: Assemble the lapboard. Glue and nail the sides, back, and compartment to the bottom, as shown in the diagram. Glue and nail the semi-circle rail in place. Trim the end pieces to match the bottom. Note:

I left an opening to rest my arms on and to use as a cleanout. It is possible to add front pieces to completely enclose the lapboard. After assembly, I suggest you round over all edges for comfort.

Step 5: Apply your finish of choice. It is possible to leave it natural, but if you apply polyurethane, it will be easier to clean up.

Materials & Tools

Materials:

• 2 each ³⁄4” x 9″ x 28¹⁄2” pine (bottom)
• 2 each ³⁄4” x 1⁵⁄8” x 18″ pine (side rails)
• 2 each ³⁄4” x 1⁵⁄8” x 27″ pine (back rail and front of compartments)
• 2 each ³⁄4” x 1⁵⁄8” x 3″ pine (compartment dividers)
• 2 each ³⁄4” x 1⁵⁄8” x 15″ hardwood of choice (see Step 1—keystone pieces)
• Wood glue of choice
• 8d finishing nails
• Assorted grits of sandpaper

Tools:

• Sander
• Jigsaw, bandsaw, or scroll saw
• Table saw or miter saw

Patterns:

• Dimensions

About the Author

Charles Brown of Cincinnati, OH, is the winner of the 2005 Woodcarving Illustrated Poor Man’s Tool Contest with his home-made “lapboard.” With this lapboard, you can carve mess-free anywhere—Charles says you can take your carving out of the basement and carve in the comforts of your easy chair. Flip it over, and it becomes a handy portable writing table. Charles won $100 for his winning entry.

Discuss this material on the Woodcarving Illustrated forums.

The post Carver’s Lapboard appeared first on Woodcarving Illustrated.