Many first-time chip carvers experience issues with color bleeding out of the chips and into the surrounding wood when staining projects. Here’s what you can do to keep the color inside the chips. Once you master adding color to chip carvings, test it out on some summer-themed coasters.

When your carving is finished, first seal the wood completely. Apply several light coats of spray satin lacquer, matte acrylic, or shellac-based sanding sealer to the entire carving—front, back, and edges. If your carved item is quite thin, avoid a penetrating sealer, as this will cause the wood to cup. 

With the wood properly sealed, brush a gel stain into the recesses of your carving and wipe off the surface with a cotton cloth. Gel stains do not absorb into the wood like penetrating oil stains. Let the stain dry overnight and spray on a final topcoat to complete the finish.

If you try to color the chips with a penetrating oil stain or dye before sealing the wood properly, the colors will bleed.

Marty used the technique outlined above on his “Chip-Carved Ball-Foot Box” from the fall 2019 issue (#88). 

Marty Leenhouts is the founder of MyChipCarving.com with over 30k subscribers and 200k hours of watch time. Courses, videos, patterns and more are available at  his website. He and his wife Shelley, also run Red Barn Retreats in Garden City, Minn.

Getting Started

Make two copies of the pattern. Attach the copies to opposite sides of the blank using spray adhesive or glue stick. Note: To keep the cross symmetrical during the carving process, make sure both patterns are directly opposite each other on the front and back of the blank. Cut the blank to size on a band saw, coping saw, or scroll saw. Then use a scroll saw or coping saw to cut the four interior elliptical shapes. Strive to maintain symmetry during the carving since it is easy to get confused as the braids weave up, down, and over each other. Label the front and back of the blank with loop directional notations to indicate which braids will be overlapping each other.

Mark the center point on the top, bottom, and both sides of the blank. Draw a centerline on each side profile around the entire blank. Note: The center lines on both sides should slope in the middle (the top part of the line should slope toward the left and the bottom of the line slope to the right) to follow the direction of braid. Draw “X”s on both side profiles to mark the wood that will be removed during the roughing out process.

Carving

Make a stop cut around the perimeter of the top and bottom sides of the blank using a carving knife. Follow the outside lines on the cross pattern. Then make a stop cut along the side profile centerlines. Start shaping the cross by removing areas marked with “X”s on the side profile with the carving knife or gouges of your choice.  Be mindful of the grain direction as your tools could sever the braids or remove too much wood that would severely diminish the symmetrical shape and diameter of the braids. Round the inside and outside of the individual braids with the carving knife and gouges; I used a 3/16″ (5mm) micro gouge from the inside of the four loops to maintain an equal braid diameter. Then use a detail knife to separate the braids where they meet in the middle and on the side profile. Aim for the cross braids to be about 3/8″ (10mm) in width.

Sanding and Finishing

Sand the cross; I used Abranet sanding mesh in assorted grits up to 320 that I cut into thin strips about 3/16″ (5mm) wide and 3″ (7.6cm) long. Alternatively, you can use sandpaper in assorted grits. Loop the 80-grit sanding mesh strip or sandpaper around the individual braid and sand in a back-and-forth motion along the braid’s length and end loops. Use this sanding technique to smooth out the area where the braids intersect in the middle of the cross. Do not rush this process. Continue sanding through the other grits until you reach 320. After sanding, use a digital caliper to measure the braid. The braid should have a final diameter of about 5/16″ (8mm).

Remove excess dust and dirt from the cross and apply three to four coats of a wax finish such as Howard Feed-N-Wax®. Then saturate narrow strips of a cloth with the finish and loop it around the braids to apply the wax in narrow areas. Let sit for 20 minutes and wipe off excess finish. Then polish the cross with a clean, soft cloth.

Materials

• Basswood, 3/4″ (1.9cm) thick: 3″ x 4″ (7.6cm x 10.2cm)

• Spray adhesive or glue stick

• Pencil

• Sanding mesh (Abranet) or sandpaper:  80-, 120-, 240-, 320-grits

• Clean, soft cloths

• Finish, such as Howard Feed-N-Wax®

Tools

• Band saw, coping saw, or scroll saw

• Knives: carving, detail

• #3 gouge: 5/8″ (16mm)

• Micro-gouge: 3/16″ (5mm)

• Digital caliper

• Ruler

SPECIAL SOURCES:

The Cross Braid pattern and roughout (#1004ZB) are available for sale at Moore Wood and Roughouts, www.roughouts.com.

Dennis Drazkowski lives in The Villages, Fla. and North Prairie, Wis. He has been woodcarving since 2018. His father, August, inspired his interest in woodcarving at an early age while both were actively involved in the local Boy Scout troop.  Since his retirement from law enforcement, Dennis has been further inspired by members of The Villages Woodcarvers Club. Contact Dennis by emailing him at ddrazkowski@gmail.com.

Painting a Jaguar

Mix equal parts apricot, golden brown, and white to make gold paint. Dilute the paint 50 percent with  water and paint the gold areas. Mix white paint 1:1 with water and paint the white areas. While the paint is still wet, use a circular motion to blend the two colors where they meet. You may need to dilute the paint further to make the colors easier to blend. Allow the piece to dry thoroughly before painting the rest of the carving.

Iris: Mix gold with a touch of nutmeg brown;
thin slightly with water

Nose: Mix gold with khaki; thin slightly with water.
Grade to black at edges.

Markings: Black; thin slightly with water

Ears: Black; thin heavily with water

Rosettes on sides and back of head: nutmeg brown;
thin heavily with water

Painting a Black Panther

Thin dark charcoal gray paint 1:1 with water. Paint the entire carving and let dry.

Iris: Mix gold with a touch of nutmeg brown;
thin slightly with water

Nose: Pinkish brown darkening to black

Markings: Black; thin slightly with water

Using a Natural Finish

I carved this panther from butternut, applied a walnut stain, and finished it with Danish oil. To make the eye stand out, paint the pupil black and add a white highlight dot.

MATERIALS

• Basswood or butternut, 7/8″ (2.2cm) thick: 3″ x 4″ (7.6cm x 10.2cm)

•  Acrylic paint, such as Plaid Apple Barrel: black, white, khaki, apricot, golden brown, nutmeg brown, pink; black panther only: charcoal gray

• Danish oil (optional)

• Stain: walnut (optional)

TOOLS

• Detail knife with a 7/8″ (22mm)-long blade, such as a Notto

• Veiner: 1/16″ (2mm) such as Dockyard (optional)

•Paintbrush: #2 round, such as Loew-Cornell

Don Self began whittling Boy Scout neckerchief slides in 1987. After retiring from a career in geology, Don returned to his native Alabama, where he joined the Tannehill Wood Carvers Club. He enjoys creating human and animal caricatures, and particularly relishes the challenge of converting an outrageous mental image into a 3-D wooden sculpture. Don typically works in basswood, painting each sculpture with acrylics, but he also enjoys working in butternut, cypress, and water oak, where the figure of the wood takes center stage.

Roughing Out

Step 1

Rough out the shape. Use a 5/8″ (16mm) soft V-tool or carving knife to start blocking out the figure by removing wood around the arms and hands. Keep them larger than needed to allow for adjustments later.

Step 2

Refine the basic shape. With the carving knife, round the corners of the blank to make it easier to hold. Then start rounding the legs and boots.

Step 3

Block in the head. Use the carving knife and 5/8″ (16mm) soft V-tool to start blocking in the face and hat. I like to work on these at the same time.

Step 4

Define the face and add details. Mark out the width of the face and use the carving knife to taper it to an approximate angle of 45°. Note: Move the centerline of the face slightly which will turn the head from the centerline of the body, giving the carving a little more interest. Cut in the brow line using a 1/4″ (6mm) #9 gouge. Then use the carving knife to cut in the bottom of the nose. Draw in the sideburns and ears.

Step 5

Shape the neck. Use the carving knife to create the neck area. Work back and forth on each side for symmetry.

Step 6

Carve the nose. Use the carving knife to cut in the wings of the nose and the smile lines to start the mouth mound. Then set the angle of the nose.

Step 7

Define the mouth. Round the mouth mound with the carving knife, and then draw the mouth. Make a stop cut along the sketched mouth and remove a small amount of wood below the upper lip. Use the 1/4″ (6mm) #9 gouge to cut in the lower lip and shape the chin area. Carve the nostrils with the gouge turned backward. Then use the carving knife to create the eyes.

TIP: GETTING NOSY

To carve the nostrils symmetrically, I draw a line across the nose, and then use that as a starting point. This way, there’s a good chance that both nostrils will be the same height.

Step 8

Add head details. Carve the ears and sideburns. Then use the 1/4″ (6mm) #9 gouge to carve the hair.

Step 9

Refine the body. Referring to the patterns and photo of the finished project, start carving the rest of the body, shaping the arms, hands, and legs. This is a good time to look over your carving to make sure you are satisfied with it before adding the details.

Adding Details

Step 10

Draw the clothing. Refer to the pattern to sketch the chest waders, pocket, and the shirt collar and sleeves.

Step 11

Carve the boots. Shape the waders with the carving knife and cut in the sole. Then use a 1/8″ (3mm) #9 gouge to make grooves along the soles for treads. If you look at waders, the boots join the legs forming one piece, so I cut a shallow line around the top of the boots to show where they join.

Step 12

Add the pocket. Outline the chest portion of the waders with the 1/8″ (3mm) 60° V-tool, removing sharp lines. Then cut in the collar and straps. Carve the buttons on the shirt and sleeves. Add some folds to the waders, using the knife and a 1/2″ (13mm) #5 gouge.

Carving the Accessories

Step 13

Carve the reel. Draw the outline of the reel and carve the reel and handle shape. Sketch in the reel and outline it with the 1/4″ (6mm) 60°  V-tool. Round the handle with the knife. Shape the reel and cut grooves in the center to give the illusion that it has fishing line on it. Drill a hole in the top part of the handle, and then insert the piece of bamboo skewer for the pole. Carve the skewer as necessary for fit and affix it in place with wood glue.

Step 14

Carve the fish. Draw the outline of the fish on the blank and carve the profile of the fish. Sketch a curved center line on the top of the fish, and then sketch the outside lines for the width. Shape the fish to the lines, removing sharp edges.

Step 15

Detail the fish. Sketch the top and bottom fins and outline. Use the 1/8″ (3mm) 60°  V-tool to refine the shape. Sketch in the gills and lower fin, and then outline with the V-tool and smooth over the sharp lines. Carve the mouth slightly open so you can drill a small hole and insert a string so the fisherman can hold the fish.

MATERIALS

• Wood, such as basswood, 2-1/2″ (6.4cm) square: fisherman, 6″ (15.2cm) long

• Wood, such as basswood, 3/8″ (1cm) square: fish, 1-3/8″ (3.5cm) long

• Wood, such as basswood, 3/8″ (1cm) square: reel, 1-3/4″ (4.4cm) long

• Bamboo skewer: fishing pole, 3-1/4″ (8.3cm) long

• Marker: black

• Acrylic paint, such as Americana®: black, burnt sienna, dark forest, light buttermilk, tomato red, uniform blue; such as Anita’s: chocolate brown; such as Ceramcoat®: coral, leaf green, medium flesh, silver, yellow ochre

• Boiled linseed oil

• Mineral spirits

• Finish, such as spray lacquer

• Glue: cyanoacrylate (CA), wood

• Cord or string

TOOLS

• Carving knife

• #5 gouge: 1/2″ (13mm)

• #9 gouges: 1/8″ (3mm), 1/4″ (6mm)

• V-tools: 1/8″ (3mm), 1/4″ (6mm) 60°

• Soft V-tool: 5/8″ (16mm)

• Drill with bit: 1/16″ (2mm)-dia.

• Paintbrushes: assorted

• Dish soap, such as Dawn®

• Stiff brush

Jim Hiser lives in Carlisle, Pa. and started carving in 2000. He is a Member and Past President of the Caricature Carvers of America. He is also a member of the West Shore Woodcarvers and Lancaster County Wood Carvers.

Getting Started

Photocopy the patterns. Then sand the 3″ by 3″ (7.6cm by 7.6cm) piece of basswood with 220-grit sandpaper. I recommend using this specific size of basswood as it is safer to use a larger piece than the exact size of the pattern. Remove the dust with a tack cloth. Apply a coat of wipe-on polyurethane, such as Minwax®, and allow it to dry. The polyurethane helps prevent an uneven finish when you apply the final coats of finish or stain after carving. Trim the patterns to fit the earrings. Then apply rubber cement to the back of the pattern and center it on the wood. Set up your workspace; I carve against a nonslip mat.

Carving

Carve the pieces according to the patterns. Most of the chips in this project are old-world style. These chips use two vertical cuts and a diagonal cut to create triangles. On the patterns, the dots mark the deep end of each chip. After I carve the earrings, I cut each one out on a scroll saw, cutting just outside of the pattern line. Then I sand them up to the line on a sanding belt to get a smooth edge. I then hold the earring at an angle to bevel the edges. Try to get the bevel angle even all around.

Finishing

Remove any remaining pattern paper. Apply two more coats of wipe-on polyurethane. Use a toothbrush to get the finish into the deep chip cuts. Buff the piece between coats with a soft cloth. Carefully drill a 1/8″ (3mm)-dia. hole at the top of each earring to add the earring hooks. Insert a mini screw eye pin into the hole, using a tiny drop of cyanoacrylate (CA) glue to secure it. Besides earrings, these carvings can be used to make necklaces, keychain fobs, pins, zipper pulls, or enlarged to become a luggage tag. I never thought I would wear large earrings, but these are fun and light. Enjoy!

MATERIALS

• Basswood 3/16″ (5mm) thick: 3″ x  3″ (7.6cm x 7.6cm) square or larger

• Sandpaper: 220-grit

• Rubber cement

• Tack cloth

• Toothbrush

• Clear finish, such as Minwax® wipe-on polyurethane: satin

• Gel stain, such as Old Masters®: assorted colors (optional)

• Acrylic paints: assorted (optional)

• Glue: cyanoacrylate (CA)

• Earring hooks

• Mini screw eye

TOOLS

• Scroll saw with blades: #2/0 reverse-tooth

• Knife: chip carving

• Belt sander

• Drill with bit: 1/8″ (3mm)-dia.

• Nonslip mat (optional)

Jan Jenson lives in Eau Claire, Wis., and Pharr, Texas, and loves to teach chip carving. She has written three chip carving books, Blue Ribbon Chip Carving, More Blue Ribbon Chip Carving, and her third book is available digitally and includes 50 pages of new patterns. Her other hobbies include box-making and quilting. Contact her at JOJenson@gmail.com.

• 40 holiday carving projects, each a favorite from the archives of Woodcarving Illustrated, and with a variety of skill levels for beginner, intermediate, and expert carvers
• Step-by-step instructions, coordinating color photography, insightful tips, and more
• Ready-to-use patterns and festive projects including tree toppers, a candy dish, Christmas ornaments, Santa figurines, earrings, pencils, and more
• Contributions by today’s leading carving experts, including Shawn Cipa, Deborah Call, Don Dearolf, Janet Bolyard, Robert Biermann, Vicki Bishop, and others
• Updated edition features new projects from recent issues of Woodcarving Illustrated

[button link=”https://bit.ly/3cK382c” bg_color=”#de0b0b”]Shop Now[/button]

Santa with Cardinal, Page 83

Santa Collector’s Plate, Page 97

Old World Santa, Page 52

Playful Chris-Moose, Page 16

Power Carved Dove, Page 37

Santa Collector’s Plate, Page 97